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2008cc 8.75:1 CR 3A G60 build. - Page 16 Cooltext403300291


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2008cc 8.75:1 CR 3A G60 build. - Page 16 Cooltext403300291
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2008cc 8.75:1 CR 3A G60 build.

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CorradoVR6-Turbo
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Post by dirtytorque Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:47 am

Smile

Well I look forward to seeing what you do next maybe with a blank canvas.
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Post by mrbeige Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:29 am

I think I'm just as disappointed as you guys. What did Wayne fiddle about with? Just the mapping? Any changes to the vernier etc?
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Post by ctwg60 Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:40 am

I didn't have the vernier fitted, after all the messing with taking it off and putting it back on again I wanted to keep things as simple as possible, also the figures I have for the schrick and G60 cam are advanced figures of around 8-10 degrees as the TDC mark isn't right on the flywheel and once the belt is installed to get the right tension it's retarded slightly more so. We didn't try knocking it a tooth retarded but 1 tooth = 16˚ at the flywheel which is too much really but it was a desperate last attempt and it gave us less power by 10bhp. I was there till 7:30pm and it was time to give up and go home.

It just didn't want to know over 5k it literally flatlined. I was so gutted I at the time I handed over £350 in cash (for a hard days efforts by Wayne) and didn't even ask for a graph. It made the best figures on arrival without a remap! FFS!

OK I'm getting annoyed now so I'll leave it there. Something isn't right!!!

The Incredible Hulk should never own a G60! alien

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Post by ctwg60 Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:47 am

You have to laugh!

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Found one for you beigey watch it all the way through!

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Post by dirtytorque Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:01 am

it was a wonder David banner didn't put a bullet through his head at the end of each show with that music playing.

Laughing

LOL..

The Stuey bit FRom FG ..very funny.


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Post by mrbeige Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:01 am

There is something clealry wrong there though. Dialing the vernier in would make a difference wouldn't it? I know you've put loads of effort into this and it would be a shame not to continue. Seeing the engine 'flatline' after 5k, seems like it's retarding itself or something. Was the ECU compensating for knock maybe?
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Post by dirtytorque Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:06 am

The head clearly just broke the setup somehow.
Youd need to have a generous friend who owned a dyno to fix it .
I have to admit an exhausting prospect.
You'd either triumph or end up in the funny farm.
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Post by mrbeige Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:09 am

dirtytorque wrote:The head clearly just broke the setup somehow.
Youd need to have a generous friend who owned a dyno to fix it .
I have to admit an exhausting prospect.
You'd either triumph or end up in the funny farm.
It's the difference in the figures between Desktop Dyno and the real world. Was the cam setup as per DD? Or at least close to it?
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Post by Toad Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:26 pm

Sad

Sorry to hear this Chris. Had big hopes. Guess as you say some things don't work out, there is only so far you can go. Shame it's cost so much too.
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Post by ctwg60 Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:07 am

Hi, Tom,

Might come to the Stealth RR with an adjustable pulley fitted and see if vince can have a play for some extra notes. Do you think he'd entertain the idea? Failing that I can't see what else I can do really. I'd be happy if it made the same wheel power as before with a bit more torque. Can't really see it doing that though. It just doesn't want to know over 4750rpm it's just flat to the rev limiter.

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Post by dirtytorque Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:51 am

.. worth fitting a vernier and retarding the cam timing a few degrees?
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Post by kevhaywire Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:27 am

Sorry to hear you didn't get what you expected Crying or Very sad Still, you had a damn good shot at it and you've gained considerable knowledge and expertise from it I suspect, so not a complete loss! Same thing happens to practically all marques of car when chasing those horsepowers unfortunately.

ctwg60 wrote:Wayne did say as I was leaving, "Have you thought about fitting a 1.8 20v turbo. good cheap power them!" Laughing I had to laugh and agree with him! He did his damnedest to make it work! Cheers Wayne!

He does have a point Laughing Not the most charismatic engine around but capable of many smiles per hour all the same. But again, that engine gets to a point where things get expensive also.

I still rate the VRT as one of the most effective bolt on specials in terms of grunt per p£unt and power delivery Cool

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Post by ctwg60 Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:55 am

Yes your right Kev my knowledge has increased exponentially during this process so no not a complete waste, and it was fun...sorta! Laughing Mad Embarassed

OK pretty much done with G60 performance mods, I know when I'm beat! Or rather my pocket and patience is, plus it's all getting a little bit too much all round. So J808 is my new project. I'm calling it "Project Standard G60 Daily", I will be selling all parts I have relating to a performance G60 so put the word out. Time to raise some cash. I will be enjoying a year of bolting together one good car out of 2 and dreaming up crazy ideas and then changing my mind over night. I thank you!

VRT? 20VT? dunno at the mo' but it will have a Turbo! Hey that rhymes!

THE END!

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Post by mrbeige Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:19 am

16v T? Wink
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Post by ctwg60 Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:48 am

Nah they're really common, everyone's doing them these days, it would seem! Wink

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Post by dirtytorque Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:22 am

Audi 80 coupe 4wd.

If you don't I will. Twisted Evil

We need some non Corrado action around here.
Yeah 16vt done to death.
Do a 20vt instead. Wink
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Post by kevhaywire Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:34 am

ctwg60 wrote:VRT? 20VT? dunno at the mo' but it will have a Turbo! Hey that rhymes!

Good man Very Happy

Who says it has to be a VAG motor? Why not stick an Evo 9 engine in Cool

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Post by ctwg60 Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:11 am

kevhaywire wrote:Why not stick an Evo 9 engine in Cool

Err Money! Laughing

OK maybe not quite then END!

Well A major development! I have a big hole in my boost pipe between the charger and the intercooler! It had previously been repaired as i found out as the thick black rubber they had used was coming away. Have images but stuck on my iphone as mac is off for repair with apple. So I rewrapped it with duct tape, finally got the clips back on and drove to work. I floored it from low down in 3rd gear and hit 1730 at around 3500rpm it then dropped suddenly to around 1500 and then rebuilt the pressure to 1600 at the red line. So I think it's still leaking but I haven't seen 1700+ since fitting the head and certainly not at 3500rpm, infact I haven't seen 1730 that low since I fitted the 2ltr lump which means I've possibly been losing boost for the last year.

New boost pipes are needed I guess! Oh yeah I did a 2nd gear pull and heard some horrible detonation and came off the gas immediately! :eek:

So good and bad news I guess! Sad

Spoke to G-Werks and have replacement hoses on order, rang Wayne of Chipwizards and he was really good about it and said he would do it again for free once the leaks are fixed! cheers

I'M BACK IN THE GAME!! COME ON! affraid lol!

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Post by jmc Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:40 am

That would account for things. Good to see you've found what is probably the main problem. I was really surprised when I read that you were seeing those values at the wheels given the capacity of the block. Do you not have a separate boost gauge plumbed into the back of the clocks - much better than having to rely on the MFA one....
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Post by ctwg60 Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:39 am

jmc wrote:That would account for things. Good to see you've found what is probably the main problem. I was really surprised when I read that you were seeing those values at the wheels given the capacity of the block. Do you not have a separate boost gauge plumbed into the back of the clocks - much better than having to rely on the MFA one....

Hmm no just used the maf one which is a faff but yeah your right. I have a gauge phobia though. I don't like them looking at me while I drive! Suspect

Boost history has been

Old engine 1 bar from around 4k onwards

New bottom end 0.75 bar at red line

New Head 0.64 bar at red line

Engine after mapping 0.53 bar at 5k and drops to 0.44 at red line

After bodging boost hose 0.73 bar at 3500rpm drops to 0.5 bar straight after then builds to .6 bar at redline.

So it's been rather inconsistent! I just refused to pay £110 to bar-tek.de for one bright blue rubber hose! G-Werks are doing the full set in black for £150 delivered. Actually made by SWG but same price as them so...


Last edited by ctwg60 on Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:53 am; edited 1 time in total

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Post by dirtytorque Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:58 am

A free remap?

That's nice of him.
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Post by jmc Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:31 am

ctwg60 wrote:Hmm no just used the maf one which is a faff but yeah your right. I have a gauge phobia though. I don't like them looking at me while I drive! Suspect

Boost history has been

Old engine 1 bar from around 4k onwards

New bottom end 0.75 bar at red line

New Head 0.64 bar at red line

Engine after mapping 0.53 bar at 5k and drops to 0.44 at red line

After bodging boost hose 0.73 bar at 3500rpm drops to 0.5 bar straight after then builds to .6 bar at redline.

So it's been rather inconsistent! I just refused to pay £110 to bar-tek.de for one bright blue rubber hose! G-Werks are doing the full set in black for £150 delivered. Actually made by SWG but same price as them so...

We shall see. I want to get it remapped with venier and then take it to stealth on the 29th so I can join the "Stealth G60 Flywheel Power Dick Swinging Contest" on Dubforce! Laughing

I use an Autometer Sport Comp one - cost about £50 and is excellent quality. I have it mounted up on top of the dash near the drivers A pillar, so is just off line of sight. It's odd that it builds, then drops then builds again. Mine builds and then stays there. The only time I have seen it do the type of behaviour you're seeing is when I changed ISV's, which I put down the the valve not working properly. You're ISV will be working overtime venting all that extra boost at the moment though, otherwise you'd be running way too lean, which would also account for what you are seeing.

The last time mine as 'swung' at Stealth it made 249 at the flywheel btw - however on a map which was undrivable everyday (too rich low down), and I have swapped back to the old one, so I have no idea what it'll do in November.
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Post by ctwg60 Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:49 am

I think I still have a leak as I'm boosting with duct tape! Very Happy So pressure builds, the tape lets go, I lose x amount of boost, gap then closes up and it starts to build the boost again.

Last night it was giving 0.53 bar at 5k and then dropping to 0.44 bar by the red line but the build up of boost to 0.53 fluctuated, it wasn't a steady rise. My repair has at least shown there is more boost coming from the charger but the hose still can't hold it which doesn't surprise me. ISV only bleeds at 1bar unless knock is detected or it's faulty. My knock sensor was unplugged. I think I'll plug it back in tonight! Embarassed

What did you make at the wheels at stealth. Didn't you make 206bhp at the wheels at stealth?


Last edited by ctwg60 on Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:55 am; edited 1 time in total

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Post by jmc Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:01 am

You're right, it wont be detecting knock and bleeding pressure without it plugged in, lol. From memory I made 202 at the wheels in Jan, but only 198 at the wheels in May when it was remapped. The corrected flywheel value was higher in May than Jan though for some reason (could be air pressure related I suppose). I was losing about 45-50 from the flywheel to the wheels.
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Post by ctwg60 Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:17 am

yes Stealth are about 20-25% loss most others 10-15% and then you have awesome which is about 7%. God knows which is correct probably about 15% I'd say.

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