DIrtyTorque's odd corner.

How's the arc eye? Done any more welding?

Toad wrote:How's the arc eye? Done any more welding?

eyes are ok thnks

yeah I've been tinkering today.Finished off the reel of flux cored steel wire tho so I couldn't do any more.

Did some bits on some steel on the upper limit or the welder I bought.
It has a max current rating of 130 amp which is good for about 5mm steel i beleive.
The stuff i was welding today was about 4.5 mm.

I'm just going to keep buying offcuts and each month and will just keep practicing.

Cheers bud.[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


btw Tom you know that VR tensioner we mentioned can you measure its diameter for me pls?
Oh,and is the centre bearing whole M8 ?

I'm not sure how much penetration you're getting. Might be interesting to cut a section out with a hacksaw.

I've got the tensioner to hand, but no tape. The bearing is a normal ball beaing unit held in with a circlip, should press out fairly easily.

Toad wrote:I'm not sure how much penetration you're getting. Might be interesting to cut a section out with a hacksaw.

I've got the tensioner to hand, but no tape. The bearing is a normal ball beaing unit held in with a circlip, should press out fairly easily.

Agreed.
Found this pic on mig-weld.co.uk that illustrates the point.

I'll need to crank it up a notch.


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Toad wrote:
I've got the tensioner to hand, but no tape. The bearing is a normal ball beaing unit held in with a circlip, should press out fairly easily

Ok,but is the centre hole 8mm ?

I'll try to take the pulley home and measure it up tomorrow. I'm sure a bearing supplier, such as Blue Diamond would be able to supply you with a suitable bearing given the inner and outer dimensions. Otherwise, if the hole is too big. I'm sure I could find someone to knock up a sleeve.

Nice pic of the welds. if the current is right up, you might want to turn the wire speed down a bit and weld a bit slower, get a bigger weld pool.

I'm sure when you get some new gas you'll have plenty of fun with it.

playing around with the air and water plumbing to find out what extra bits i need.
Seems like its pretty much sorted with the bits i already have.
Just need to configure something for the boost return.
I'm liking the much shorter air path anyway.
Wondering what the heat implications are with the intake directly behind the radiator fan as opposed to being above the zuast manifold.
Can't wait to have it running and then map it on the
squirt.

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Well that looked too easy!

ctwg60 wrote:Well that looked too easy!

yeah I know.No dramas.
Can you believe it?!??

So what else is there to figure out? You have boost pulleys, fuel, plumbing, spark! It's done!

ctwg60 wrote:So what else is there to figure out? You have boost pulleys, fuel, plumbing, spark! It's done!

kinda.To get the engine started I could always just blank the charger boost return off and vent the no used boost to atmosphere.

umm still have a slight issue with a throttle cable that i am ironing out.
Need some head bolts and a 16v cam tensioner and a few other bolts to button up the engine.
Need to get the block tapped for the oil return line and I may or maynot have to get a head re-built.Not sure yet.On that note Shaggy if you read this can you PM me pls.
I also have to re-route the wiring for my tach guage signal because my last solution was "temporary"
Just silly little things now.

Mate I was joking, I think you have another 3 months work minimum. It's the small things that drag it out. If you buy a good drill bit I'm sure you could drill the block yourself I just had the engine builder do it as the block was there for reboring and rebuilding. Just be careful of the threads.

yup.
March would be good.
specially as i have to reign in the spending.

Is the VR pulley any good?

VR throttle cable not quite right? That wasn't the best example of one I'm afraid.

Toad wrote:Is the VR pulley any good?

VR throttle cable not quite right? That wasn't the best example of one I'm afraid.

I don't understand how the VR throttle attaches itself to the pedal assembly.
It is differnt to the hook type attachement you get on a g60 throttle cable.
The VR pulley wasn't what I was expecting either.Glad I have seen one in the metal tho.

Rob, i'd be well happy with those welds if it was my first time! I did some last year in a workshop and it looked like squirrel guts, never again.

Looks like it's rocketing along! Putting me to shame definitely.

boost monkey wrote:Rob, i'd be well happy with those welds if it was my first time! I did some last year in a workshop and it looked like squirrel guts, never again.

Looks like it's rocketing along! Putting me to shame definitely.

Back from the dead I c.
It's nice of you to say so but they are not that good tbh.
But it is to be expected as I have only just started.
I need to improve my hardware setup a bit and then get some more offcuts to practice on.

another piece of the puzzle falls into place.
taken from the yahoo group forum.

Just use a throttle cable from a Scirocco with part number 171 721 555 T (marked green). This one is longer (1068mm) and fits instantly. Best regards, Niek ......

The VR one can also be used apparently but requires other mods.

Excellent. Thinking about it properly the 16v pedal has a hole in it which the cable hooks through right? The VR6 has an end looking like a spoon with a slot in it, you pull the spring back and with the balls either side of the spoon shaped piece slide the cable up the slot, the sping pressure holds it in place.

That is the worst explaination ever, and as well as sounding mildly double entendrish is probably not exactly right. Sorry!

Anyway, it soulds like you have it sorted now.

As for the pulley, do you need to offset it more, or different hole, or are the ribs wrong? The hole/offest should be easy to sort with a different bearing or a shaped sleeve.

Toad wrote:
As for the pulley, do you need to offset it more, or different hole, or are the ribs wrong? The hole/offest should be easy to sort with a different bearing or a shaped sleeve.

the pulley has one or two extra ribs but the biggest thing is the diameter is wrong.
I'm thinking that maybe it would be better to find another pulley..

dunno yet.Its not a show stopper.Something will materialize.
I have faith.

random tangent.
Went for a drive in this this afternoon.Inspiring.His brothers has a clone of this setup but on a K04.
I think i mentioned it before somewhere else in the forum.It is very very twitchy on acceleration and the whole car shakes when turbo spools and the torque comes in.
Mental.And on a more relevant note that throttle cable in the pic may also work for me.It is from a mk2 1.8 driver. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I drilled my block really easy with drill bit and cordless drill.

You could always route the oil retrun through the front crankcase breather, thats what my BBM charger does

Flusted wrote:I drilled my block really easy with drill bit and cordless drill.

You could always route the oil retrun through the front crankcase breather, thats what my BBM charger does

yeah i've drilled it already.
I was just being ghey.

tbh
I thought I was going to have to drill it and then tap in threads but the threads were already there.I didn't realize.

yeah thats good, i panic'd a bit when doing mine. im also "teh ghey"

Found a ribbed idler at last in a Mercedes at the scrap yard.
Finished off the odds n ends for the tensioner setup.
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Plodding on..

Mate that's a bloody good setup I cannot fault it, which is unusual for me! Thumbs up!

ctwg60 wrote:Mate that's a bloody good setup I cannot fault it, which is unusual for me! Thumbs up!

lol, I said to myself "right lets see what chris is going to say now" when I took the photo.
I'm glad it has passed quality control.