DIrtyTorque's odd corner.

dirtytorque wrote:I have had conversations with Chris about the motivation thing.
The closer I came to the finish line,the more I started to feel metally jaded,to the point where I had to be dragged across the line.He was a help as he was always asking what was going on with the project etc,and the guys on here too.Your pretty much done Yan.Once you get the charger back your away,no?

Tacho.
Do you have a later g60 ecu to match your late loom?
If you have a late Loom the tacho signal comes to the clock from pin 24 on the loom plug as you said to g1/12 on the Fusepanel.A green and yellow wire.There must be an idirect bus within the ecu that moderates the signal from the coil and then sends it onto the clocks.I think it needs to be attenuated.
If you havn't got the right ECU you can use the circuit diagram that I used with my Megasquirt.

Oil pressure sender.

I don't think you can use it to control the dash clock light as the oil pressure switches are fed into a control unit that is expecting an on/off type signal probably short circuited to ground or not as the case maybe,whereas the oil pressure sender will be a variable resistance changing under different oil pressures.

Yeah once the charger is back it's all working ok (or it was before I removed it ), need to do some wiring loom tidying and other jobs of that ilk, a lot of the remaining stuff would be easier out of the garage and on the drive, (ancillary gauge wiring etc) as I can get the doors open properly.

No major issues with the rev counter, I have the electric string manual so it's all in there, as I am retaining my original 16v clocks then it's just a case of splicing a wire in to get the right signal, easy enough to just remove pin 24 on the ECU harness at the ECU end and reroute it to the coil.

I have heard rumours that you can use the oil pressure sender as the low/high oil pressure switch but IIRC you need an Audi unit to do it.

Got the shopping list for VW all ready to go, will drop it in tomorrow, found another belt to use; a little shorter at 1285mm instead of 1293mm but it's from a V5 Golf this time.

still not 100% happy with your belt?
Is it slipping?

I have tidying to do but i'll do that last like you say on a driveway so you can have elbow room.Just want to break the new engine in and check it for performance and reliability.

dirtytorque wrote:still not 100% happy with your belt?
Is it slipping?

I have tidying to do but i'll do that last like you say on a driveway so you can have elbow room.Just want to break the new engine in and check it for performance and reliability.

No slip issues that I was aware of but not driven it in anger to find out, it reved up nicely without belt slip but without load it is impossible to tell. Luckily the nugget gives me a reference tension to get an idea!

The reason I need a slightly shorter belt is that the existing belt and tensioner setup chewed the current one. The reason was I had located one of the Tdi style idler pulleys on the same bolt location as the upper PAS bracket mounting point, this was contacting with the inside edge of the water pump pulley and shredding the belt; it also made a really annoying chirping noise!

Anyway with the idler roller relocated the belt needs to be a little shorter, my original belt length was always a guess anyway as my tensioner is using the alt pulley as the tension point. So unlike your idler setup where you could measure the belt length and it will go tight thanks to the way the stock G60 swing arm works mine is a little more trial and error. One thing is for sure, it's going to be a pig to change with the bumper and slam panel fitted.

i must admit one of my idlers makes a bit of a squeal too.But only at higher rpm.
Another thing on the todo list.
Maybe it is one of my tdi rollers too.
Can' be bothered to take the slam panel off huh?!???

I know the feeling.
Each time I mess with it i'm paranoid my bonnet cable might have a fit.

indulged myself with a nice presentable rocker cover.
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Ooooooo shiney!

Just noticed the fuel lines are on the opposite side to what I'd expect??

they need to be that side with the tensioner setup im using.
The one your thinking of wouldn't pass the tensioner bracket.

Aaah, I see. Where have you routed the hoses?

underneath the intake manifold.

Rob, couple of quickies.

How much did you trim from your slam panel to get the intercooler to fit?

What's the part number of the rubber boots you have fitted to the injector wiring loom?

Thanks in advance

Slam panel was just a case of using an angle grinder+ cutting disc to cut out a small section enough to accommodate the intercooler.
Without wishing to teach you to suck eggs it wasJust a case of offering it up seeing where it interferes Marking it up.Cutting,re-offering it up and cutting some more etc.

I did it so long ago so I don't think I have any pictures of my precision engineering.Funny that.


The boots I recovered along with an injector loom from a 1.8T sequential injection engine in a scrap yard.(I re-wired it for batch fired.)The engine was out of the car so I don't know the model but I bet alot if not all of them had them in.

dirtytorque wrote:indulged myself with a nice presentable rocker cover.
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Thats a fantastic looking sight Rob

jmc wrote:

dirtytorque wrote:indulged myself with a nice presentable rocker cover.
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Thats a fantastic looking sight Rob

Thnks J
I'll admit i'm happy with it too.

dirtytorque wrote:Slam panel was just a case of using an angle grinder+ cutting disc to cut out a small section enough to accommodate the intercooler.
Without wishing to teach you to suck eggs it wasJust a case of offering it up seeing where it interferes Marking it up.Cutting,re-offering it up and cutting some more etc.

I did it so long ago so I don't think I have any pictures of my precision engineering.Funny that.


The boots I recovered along with an injector loom from a 1.8T sequential injection engine in a scrap yard.(I re-wired it for batch fired.)The engine was out of the car so I don't know the model but I bet alot if not all of them had them in.

Thanks Rob.

Quick browse through ETKA gives me 443 906 102G for injector plug rubber boots on an '03 1.8T Golf, so will get a set of those to play with although it's another VW premium part at around £3 each

I have already trimmed my slam panel, I was just wondering how much material you ended up removing, as Olly Elworthy ended up chopping the bottom from his slam panel when he fitted the intercooler, see picture.

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No nothing that drastic.
Interestingly enough I think I can now replace my slam panel to a unmodified one because of the IC is mounted on a longer rad it doesn't angle into the panel like it use to.The cooler no longer angles into my nice clean notches.

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Yeah my cut and shut job looks similar to yours, interesting about the angle of the longer radiator making all the difference..

going to drive to work in the C tomorrow I think.
Just downloaded an update for TunerStudio, by far the best tuning software available for Megasquirt.
It now has a autotune feature much like the original Megatune software,probably the only feature that it was lagging behind Megatune up Until now that is.
I'm very impressed with this software.
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Looking more like a proper piece of software now.

You got your brakes sorted then?

yes the devoloper is actively working on it all the time and it has an automatic update feature so when a new feature comes out it is added automatically on startup.
You can export/import fuel/advance/ve tables in and out now the accel enrich/coldstart/idlecontrol wizzards are way better than megatune's and as a whole is just far more polished than megatune.
You have megatunix aswell for Linux,but that just isn't up to scratch tbh,which is a shame.

Will work on the brakes again this weekend to try and improve them.
How's Dec getting on?

No idea actually. We need to get our bums down there. Next weekend??

what about bright an early Feb the 13th?

I'd be up for that. I'll try and get hold of Dr McCoy today

Seems, I'm busy that weekend. Mrs B has something arranged

Ok,you know we could probably get him started on his own.He should come on here or send me a PM.
We can systematically go through everything.At this stage he has nothing to loose.

Anyway went out for a blast in mine.
I got a git more adventurous and ramped up the ignition timing in what I'd call the heart of the engines performance range to the point of Detonation,then backed it off until it was no longer discernible ,by ear at least.Anyway,I'm happy with the outcome and had some fun around some country roads(Damn there's some large potholes about.)

Car seems to be hitting the target afr's nicely now.
Highest boost pressure seen was 0.65 bar.
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Question,what oil temp is optimum.It's a bit nippy about 6 degrees but seeing 80-85 degrees oil temps.
Actually I think my standard golf runs about this mark

80-90 degrees of oil temp is optimum in my book, so even if you consider the higher ambient temps in summer you will be fine.

I will be interested to see what the oil temp spikes to after a good thrash and then you run into some queuing traffic, that's about the only failing I can see with the air to oil cooler arrangement.

Got a call from G-werks yesterday, my charger should be with me on Monday, which is nice.

As my charger bracket was looking a little dirty I though I would take the opportunity to remove it and paint it to keep it looking pretty. In doing so I have revisted (for the 4th time) belt routing and have gone for yet another revision. As you can see in the crude image below (that was revision 1 of the belt..) I should be able to get at least 180 degrees of contact for each of the driven pulleys with the charger in excess of 180. I have also removed one idler from the set-up which will reduce belt drag slightly and as such lost power through transmission. Unfortunately I have no idea how long the belt needs to be now so my new one might be a little redundant, new pulleys ordered from VAG this morning as I have stolen your idea Rob and am going to fit the later non-ribbed water pump pulley. The new arrangement also means the spring tensioner on the alternator is now operating at an optimum angle so should work more effectively (not that I had any issues aside from pulley to pulley contact).

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Any comments or suggestions greatfully appreciated and apologies for the thread hijacking (again)