DIrtyTorque's odd corner.

pls don't feel like your hijacking.
Discussion is always welcome.
Will there be enough room for the belt to pass underneath the idler pulley twice?

dirtytorque wrote:pls don't feel like your hijacking.
Discussion is always welcome.
Will there be enough room for the belt to pass underneath the idler pulley twice?

Yes, sorry should have explained my image slightly better (makes sense in my head!)

All the yellow circles represent pulleys and the relative diameter of the pulleys, the small one labelled 'idler' is the cambelt pulley from a mk 3 era 1.9 TDi, so space there is not an issue. You can also ignore the unlabelled pulley below the alt, it's not fitted anymore.

My real concern is the crank pulley to 90mm idler belt run having belt contact with the return belt run at the water pump pulley. I am off into the garage to have a fiddle using the standard G60 water pump pulley but I suspect looking at your pictures that the 2.0 8v style one is slightly smaller in diameter.

The only other 'snag' is correct belt length is going to be vital, the VAG way to tension these type of spring set-ups is to undo the locking bolts and run the engine to establish correct belt tension. It must work out ok and I intend to introduce a section of metal with an oval cut-out so I can limit the extent of travel and lock the alt fully down when fitting a belt. I am still loathe to lock of the tensioner completely but will have to experiment a little more.

ah,i See.
Yes I do believe tthough it has to be in the right that the water pump pulley I used should give you a bit more clearance.
The reason I went fot the original damper is so that I had a Fudge factor for the belt length,although it obviously has to be in the right ballpark.
I like the damper setup you have gone for though.Very clever.
I guess once you have established what your optimum ribbed belt is then you can begin to search for a suiteable one.

Is the 1.9tdi cam belt pulley one of those little roller type affairs or some form of ribbed pulley?

dirtytorque wrote:ah,i See.
Yes I do believe tthough it has to be in the right that the water pump pulley I used should give you a bit more clearance.
The reason I went fot the original damper is so that I had a Fudge factor for the belt length,although it obviously has to be in the right ballpark.
I like the damper setup you have gone for though.Very clever.
I guess once you have established what your optimum ribbed belt is then you can begin to search for a suiteable one.

Is the 1.9tdi cam belt pulley one of those little roller type affairs or some form of ribbed pulley?

The little roller affairs, same as the pair you have as idlers on your alt.

Did a quick check this afternoon, it does all clear but I need to get the belt on and have a poke to make sure I am happy with it. Sorted out the last couple of wiring jobs this afternoon just need to tidy the loom back up and refit it to the bulkhead.

Hopefully I can get a belt length decided by Tuesday and then I can get one ordered, should be up and running by the weekend...

*NUTS*

Was just about to go to bed last night and realised I would be running the water pump in reverse...

So a little checking later and I am going to run the water pump using the V-belt drive instead, it does clear with plenty of space and gives me a little redundancy if the ribbed belt snaps as well taking some load off.

bought a sealeys universal bleeding kit at the ezee bleed ones seem to have a tendency to destroy the rubber o-ring to the re-fill bottle thus making it unable to hold pressure.
The sealey one sucks fluid through the caliper unlike the gunson bleeder that pushes fluid through the system.
Will be interesting to see how it fairs.

experimenting with the g60 throttle att,i.e having it close the boost return earlier.I have also removed the restrictor from the smaller butterfly.

dirtytorque wrote:experimenting with the g60 throttle att,i.e having it close the boost return earlier.I have also removed the restrictor from the smaller butterfly.

How did the brake bleeding go?

As for the 'restrictor' it's not designed as a restrictor, it's a balance weight to keep the throttle pedal feeling lighter/progressive under boost when accelerating or decelerating.

that draper bleeder kit was pooh.
Just got back from halfords with another gunson
I'm working nights today so I can have a go at it now.
I think maybe I just didn't push enough fluid through each corner before as it did improve a bit I think..

I'll let you know how the throttle body mods feel.
I have an extra one so the one on there at the moment can be put back on if i don't like it.
I can't help but feel it should sharpen throttle response,the throttle body was designed for an 8v head and a long runner manifold after all.

no joy,going to look into a larger MC.

You running those Willwoods? I'm sure I've probably asked that before. My memory at the moment is fairly rubbish.

Any ideas on the donor vehicle for the larger MC? Audi S2 perhaps?

So what's the deal with the different throttle bodies? Do you fancy posting some pics of the two you are playing with?

Rob I dunno if the G60 TB is an optimum design anymore, need to do some investigation into modern FI TBs and see how they do it. I would also think that given the lack of finish on the final product (no knife edging at all) it was done on a budget to achieve what they wanted.

As for tweaking the boost return valve closing; look at your boost levels just prior to that shutting, if it's dropping off then the 16v head is eating the boost too quickly and it needs to close earlier, if not then leave it.

tbh I think I have been fairly methodical up until now.The modifications I have made along the way have been the result of careful consideration and driving experience.I have been diligent about logging the majority of my journeys and looking at all the data etc so i feel quite comfortable about adjusting the throttle linkage which is setup for a 1.8 8v engine to give safe and progressive throttle response and acceleration.
Naturally this engine is chomping up a fair bit of boost.I have my log files from each stage of engine and I can see the boost levels across the the whole rev range coming down with each mod.(And no i don't have a boost leak)
The throttle setup is probably conservative for a g60 with any kind of head work.

I can't see how the g60 throttle body can be optimum tbh.It was a remnant from a previous era that the tact on to the car imo.
Anyway the most i have seen is 0.59 bar with this head at full chat so I think i have a fair margin for to play with.
If not you live and learn.

Sounds like you have plenty to play with in terms of extra boost unused at full RPM (what is your redline ATM?)

I agree about the G60 TB not being optimum (that was my badly made point above) however I wonder if an alternative solution can be found by using some more modern VW FI kit. The 1.4 TSI engine uses a charger bypass valve that is solenoid operated perhaps that would be worth looking into?

Going to stop stealing your thread now Rob and I have finally made my own, with some new pics too!

my spare g60 throttlebody taken from an automatic g60(Cheers ctwg60)[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Some donour parts taken from a pb 8v mrk2 throttle body..
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This is the restriction that I wanted to remove with just a plain flat throttle butterfly.
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New butterfly.
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Also adjutsed the throttle linkage to close the boost return earlier.

Standard boost return flap position with throttle closed.
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flap position with throttle closed after adjustment.
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Drove it for 2 hours tonight to tweak the engine management to work with the new boost curve.
No loss of throttle resolution,still plenty of control under part throttle etc
Job done.

Good to see Rob, I must admit that aftermarket management is on my 'jobs for the future' list so it will get done at some point..

You reaching a point where you are happy with the mapping?

Yes,it is very driveable,accelerations seems good.Would like to skate a little closer to the wind with the ignition map but I have set it as best I can on my own without a dyno.
As it is I have no audible pinking(horrid death rattle) under boost or heavy load but you do feel the power drop off a wee bit when you retard the timing back.
I want to make two timing maps,one on premium unleaded and one on regular.

I want to deal with all the installation niggles now the weather is a bit warmer.
Find which pulley is noisey in the tensioner system.Get rid of the diesel gearbox mount(too much vibration for me.).I need to install one of those buffer springs that you get get on the mk 3's that sit behind the alternator and do likewise on mine.
First and foremost though is the wilwood issue.

So you want to get rid of the standard G60 damper bracket set-up and replace it with a spring loaded alternator?

Not sure if my second hand running in injectors are working correctly, need to pull the plugs again as I had her running today, I suspect no 4 injector is not playing the game.

Yandards wrote:So you want to get rid of the standard G60 damper bracket set-up and replace it with a spring loaded alternator?

No,I just want to try and buffer the alternator to the block as at the moment there isn't anything between them which can't be good.Not quite like your setup.I'll get some photos when I get the parts.

[quote="Yandards"]
Not sure if my second hand running in injectors are working correctly, need to pull the plugs again as I had her running today, I suspect no 4 injector is not playing the game.[/quote

what makes you say that?

The plugs on 1-3 were very dark and sooty but no 4 was quite dry and fuelly by comparison. I am not worried about a soot build up given the engine is still at the running in stage but a considerable variation in the plugs is less good.

It could be the wiring loom at fault as I still have the older one on there and I am satisfied it's not a problem with the piston/rings as the compression test numbers were good.

Yandards wrote:The plugs on 1-3 were very dark and sooty but no 4 was quite dry and fuelly by comparison. I am not worried about a soot build up given the engine is still at the running in stage but a considerable variation in the plugs is less good.

It could be the wiring loom at fault as I still have the older one on there and I am satisfied it's not a problem with the piston/rings as the compression test numbers were good.

ah,ok..
I'm sure you'll solve it.It's nice to see you getting down to the nitty gritty bits now.

Been phoning around for insurance, what sort of numbers are you on Rob?

pm'd

Ta..

tool front wheels off and immediately saw the problem.
The second bleed screw for the other half of the caliper.Somehow in my head I got it that they were connected.I know,I'm a tool.
Replaced master cylinder anyway and now I have normal travel and a very good pedal feel.
I have my car back. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]