DIrtyTorque's odd corner.

ctwg60 wrote:Very clever stuff, I wish I knew more about electronics. pcb next?

yeah,just need to work out how i'm going to interface it to the car and if I'm going to keep the fancontroller,which i think is just for after run anyway;or if I'll run my controller alongside it.

Right,car is ready for a run.
If I don't get called out i'll take it out 2morrow evening.
Fitted new charger/air box hose as my old one was a bit broken.
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went out but came back in breaks are $hite.Like really really bad.
Hmm..
More bleeding at the weekend I guess.

How come your brakes needed bleeding? What have you been up to?

fitted wilwood brake calipers remember.

Oh, I thought they were on it when we saw you at Tom's in the Summer?? Obviously not

mrbeige wrote:Oh, I thought they were on it when we saw you at Tom's in the Summer?? Obviously not

nah,i hadn't fitted them then.
Should of really had them all fitted and bled in the summer really instead of now having to do it in polar bear weather.

dirtytorque wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

It's always the irrelevant unpredictable s**t that gets you!!!

i paid 60 odd quid for my vagcom activation but because the computer that I bought it from is no longer on this earth the software dosn't work.


I hate that sort of thing.Virtual ownership.
Marvelous.

well there does seem to be a procedure to transfer a license from one machine to the other so I'll give it a go.
Need to bleed my ABS using the vagcom function.
Can't get a decent pedal.

Just unplug the ABS...

Is it just the brakes holding you back now? Or not as the case may be?

Everything ok getting to and from work now?

i'm on annual leave,and yes I have thought about maybe unplugging the abs.
Yes only brakes and snow stopping me going out on the road now.

brakes are still need some attention but it has been so long since the car has been re-assembled I just had to take it out for an hour.Sick of it just sat there.
Managed to get the megasquirt map more than drivable in that time and it was nice to drive it after a long break.
Installation wise everything is well cept brakes and the bonnet cable still playing up.
Drivability wise the engine seemed very flexible.I was happy wafting around in it.I did try to load it up a bit to help bed the rings in but it was all pretty sedate as I'm conscious about this brake thing which I'll need to get taken care of this week.
Anyway i'm happy with it thus far.

Re brakes.

I'm wondering if I need a larger master cylinder due increased capacity for the 4-pots?!?!
Seem to have an awful lot of travel before the brakes engage.I have bled and bled and bled those things now and it's not getting any better.,

Used the data from last nights drive to carry out more tuning.
Ran it through the tuning software and it adjusted the VE table numbers to better attain my target afr's.Seems to be a gradual leaning out process from the gestimate numbers that I started from.
I could really feel the difference tonight.Pulls alot more smoothly.Also I had forgot that I had set my rev limit really low when I was experimenting in the garage last week and so it was pulling the timing by 3.5 k rpm yesterday.Needless to say once that was fixed it made a nice difference too.
It is still early days but in general this new setup feels alot better.It idles better.Before i had a very slight misfire at idle.In fact for as long as I can remember with this car it has had one.Now it doesn't miss a beat.It just feels alot more robust.
It's coming along and I really enjoyed driving it tonight.

Good for you.

Perhaps the brakes are fine, and as you say it's just the master cylinder? I've never experienced anything bigger than the 288s, so don't have a clue I'm afraid.

thnks Tom.I'm going to investigate the theory and pick up a sightly larger Vr6 MS.I'll take a chance on a second hand one as i don't even know if they will fit the g60.

Sounds good so far Rob. I'm glad that you are finding this setup better than with the 2E pistons and rods. Do it feel very much stronger than the old setup?

mrbeige wrote:Sounds good so far Rob. I'm glad that you are finding this setup better than with the 2E pistons and rods. Do it feel very much stronger than the old setup?

Yes,i think it does.
I still have accel enrichment turn off att and I havn't been much over 4k on load so...
It was 3a btw not 2e,but the same principal i.e an 8v bottom end.

Fitted another new bonnet cable and got rid of my bastardized release handle for a new one.
So end of that saga.

$hit design.
Very un VW.
Just brakes left to sort.

turned up the wick last night.
set up some acceleration enrichment and replaced a very moderate ignition advance table with something more aggressive.So I must conclude that the 8v bottom end on a 16v head setup didn't really work with the moderate boost produced by the g60.The current setup is alot stronger.
rev'd it to 6k rpm and it was still pulling strongly.Don't dare go to 7k ..yet.
I Have to think about the charger aswell.
Also I ws playing with the trip computer while driving to check oil temps and noticed that I had 41 mpg at one point.
16v ebgines really are more efficient it seems.

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Nice one Rob! Just read through the entire thread, very motivational, I need to get the charger sat off to my right on the floor down to G-Werks for a stage 4 on Monday..

I didn't realise you were on your second block already, it's amazing how much you learn as you work through these projects and I am sure 2nd time around it was a lot easier.

The MFA MPG reading will be as reliable as a chocolate T-pot about now, it has no idea of injector flow rates except for stock G60 units so it has no baseline for fuel usage to calculate MPG. Be interesting to compare the MFA figures with the more usual tank refil/mileage driven MPG technique.

16v heads are always more efficient than an 8v set-up, they just produce the power in a very different way, always have more effective cylinder head filling and usually produce more torque in a wider band than an 8v. The reason a 16v unit feels so rapid above 4k in a VW is primarily down to cam selection and that the more you rev a 16v engine the better it gets.

Great piece on 8v Vs 16v on here at the bottom of the page including some hard dyno numbers.

Yandards wrote:Nice one Rob! Just read through the entire thread, very motivational, I need to get the charger sat off to my right on the floor down to G-Werks for a stage 4 on Monday..

I didn't realise you were on your second block already, it's amazing how much you learn as you work through these projects and I am sure 2nd time around it was a lot easier.

The MFA MPG reading will be as reliable as a chocolate T-pot about now, it has no idea of injector flow rates except for stock G60 units so it has no baseline for fuel usage to calculate MPG. Be interesting to compare the MFA figures with the more usual tank refil/mileage driven MPG technique.

16v heads are always more efficient than an 8v set-up, they just produce the power in a very different way, always have more effective cylinder head filling and usually produce more torque in a wider band than an 8v. The reason a 16v unit feels so rapid above 4k in a VW is primarily down to cam selection and that the more you rev a 16v engine the better it gets.

Great piece on 8v Vs 16v on here at the bottom of the page including some hard dyno numbers.

Thnks Yan.
If anyone can draw any inspiration from what I have done then that is great as i have got alot of energy from alot of projects on the CF and on here,not least of all yours.
Yeah Second engine.Previous one was ok but if you have invested x amount of energy in a project why settle for ok?
I didn't want to.I just wanted a different "feel" to the car.I also think I made a mistake not aiming for the 8.75:1 compression that VW used on their 16v g60.
It must have been done for a reason.So I re-did it.I aalways felt like i had just thrown together the previous bottom end but I had so many other aspects of the build to think about i just went with it.Anyway,I don't regret it as it is interesting to learn through trial and error.Just a bit more expensive.

Re The MPG.
Yeah,i hadn't thought about the change in flow rate,however on watching the petrol needle I really do think I'm getting good economy.And with exactly the same fuel components as the first 16v engine the MPG went up quite dramatically so I think the engine is definitely making better use of it's air and fuel when pushing the car along than my first attempt.

Anyway I need real brakes and then i can get it mapped well enough to start thinking about a rolling road.

You going to start a thread on here for your cars?
Would be great to see that valver finished my friend.

dirtytorque wrote:

Yandards wrote:Nice one Rob! Just read through the entire thread, very motivational, I need to get the charger sat off to my right on the floor down to G-Werks for a stage 4 on Monday..

I didn't realise you were on your second block already, it's amazing how much you learn as you work through these projects and I am sure 2nd time around it was a lot easier.

The MFA MPG reading will be as reliable as a chocolate T-pot about now, it has no idea of injector flow rates except for stock G60 units so it has no baseline for fuel usage to calculate MPG. Be interesting to compare the MFA figures with the more usual tank refil/mileage driven MPG technique.

16v heads are always more efficient than an 8v set-up, they just produce the power in a very different way, always have more effective cylinder head filling and usually produce more torque in a wider band than an 8v. The reason a 16v unit feels so rapid above 4k in a VW is primarily down to cam selection and that the more you rev a 16v engine the better it gets.

Great piece on 8v Vs 16v on here at the bottom of the page including some hard dyno numbers.

Thnks Yan.
If anyone can draw any inspiration from what I have done then that is great as i have got alot of energy from alot of projects on the CF and on here,not least of all yours.
Yeah Second engine.Previous one was ok but if you have invested x amount of energy in a project why settle for ok?
I didn't want to.I just wanted a different "feel" to the car.I also think I made a mistake not aiming for the 8.75:1 compression that VW used on their 16v g60.
It must have been done for a reason.So I re-did it.I aalways felt like i had just thrown together the previous bottom end but I had so many other aspects of the build to think about i just went with it.Anyway,I don't regret it as it is interesting to learn through trial and error.Just a bit more expensive.

Re The MPG.
Yeah,i hadn't thought about the change in flow rate,however on watching the petrol needle I really do think I'm getting good economy.And with exactly the same fuel components as the first 16v engine the MPG went up quite dramatically so I think the engine is definitely making better use of it's air and fuel when pushing the car along than my first attempt.

Anyway I need real brakes and then i can get it mapped well enough to start thinking about a rolling road.

You going to start a thread on here for your cars?
Would be great to see that valver finished my friend.

I would expect better MPG from a 16vG60 as it is a more efficient unit than either a stock G60 or a stock 16v, I am interested in what sort of numbers you are getting in the long run too.

Stuck the other brake bleeding procedure up on the CF for you to try, although I suspect the not-so-easy bleed is not helping your efforts.

Knocked up a list of outstanding jobs to do on my project car (the blue one not the yellow one ), will be heading into the loft to start modifying an aluminium tube to use as a wiring rail for the fuel injector rail this afternoon, charger is going to be posted to G-werks tomorrow as I am on lates so can get to the post office. Small shopping list for VW to go in (heater motor as I stole it for the nugget!).

Need to sort the rev counter out as thanks to the later G60 engine bay loom am I using it's not working. Looking at the electric string pictures earlier dash clocks used terminal 1 on the coil for the revolution signal, the later single PCB style clocks use pin 24 on the Digi ECU; I guess the signal is different or just not strong enough for the rev counter to work! Not a huge fix to sort, just need to unpin pin 24 from the digi loom at the ECU end and splice in a connector to run to the coil.

Small list of stuff to do in the long run, just been lacking motivation to do it!

Off topic somewhat but I continue to be confused by the additional gauge sender unit function, I suspect that you can also use it to control the dash clock oil pressure warning light but can't work out how. I see you have one fitted so how did you wire it up?

I have had conversations with Chris about the motivation thing.
The closer I came to the finish line,the more I started to feel metally jaded,to the point where I had to be dragged across the line.He was a help as he was always asking what was going on with the project etc,and the guys on here too.Your pretty much done Yan.Once you get the charger back your away,no?

Tacho.
Do you have a later g60 ecu to match your late loom?
If you have a late Loom the tacho signal comes to the clock from pin 24 on the loom plug as you said to g1/12 on the Fusepanel.A green and yellow wire.There must be an idirect bus within the ecu that moderates the signal from the coil and then sends it onto the clocks.I think it needs to be attenuated.
If you havn't got the right ECU you can use the circuit diagram that I used with my Megasquirt.

Oil pressure sender.

I don't think you can use it to control the dash clock light as the oil pressure switches are fed into a control unit that is expecting an on/off type signal probably short circuited to ground or not as the case maybe,whereas the oil pressure sender will be a variable resistance changing under different oil pressures.