2008cc 8.75:1 CR 3A G60 build.

No, well yes, but it's just to keep the matched gasket in place so it's not unmatched when it all gets fitted in the car. Just silicone gasket sealant is all.

All setup to degree the schrick cam but I'll have to make it is the first job of the strip down to be sure it gets done. Need to make a new laminated paper degree wheel in work though!

So, when does it go on? Or is it already on there?

Next weekend hopefully but I have 2 kids and a wife so it's open to negotiation at short notice. You'll understand I'm sure in 9 years and 1 weeks time! I'm also relying on a friend who is also with child and married. But yes as of 13:32:54pm Monday 14th Sept 2009 we are good to go!

Took the manifold off the head this morning and removed the excess silicone from the gasket and manifold. Also been thinking of having the car mapped without the knock sensor and lambda probe. In the last year of running around 4500 miles I've never heard it pink and the lambda seems to screw up part throttle efficiency in favour of the non existent CAT! Am I talking crap here or does this make sense. As for the knock sensor it's in a different location on the block now and could be retarding timing due to false positives! If it did knock I'm sure I would recognise the noise and with the EGT in a more viewable location I'd be more than aware of a problem. Famous last words...?

The lambda is only running closed loop at idle on digi 1 IIRC, so probably not really helping you out at all. As far as the knock sensor is concerned, if it isn't in the original position, I would say it was fairly redundant, as it will be calibrated for it's original position not, the new one, and as they are notoriously difficult to calibrate, I'd guess that with that in mind it could well be reading false positives. Plus as you say, having an EGt probe there, will help you determine knock along with your ears

So fingers crossed it'll be on next week. You really have tjhe patience of a saint, I'd have pulled all my hair out if I'd had that head sitting there waiting for me....

I waited 9 months (2 attempts) for the correct length rods for this engine and when they arrived they had been bushed for 22mm not 21mm which then took a further 2-3 months wait to get sorted locally. Patience is a necessity! At the moment money is tight and so is time so it's a case of putting up with it.

Keen to go aftermarket now after years of saying I never would with this car. Looking forward to total control over the engine, better economy, emissions, more stable idle and responsiveness, if there is more power to be had then that would be cool too. I guess now I understand how basic the digi ECU is and that you can't exactly make things worse, I hope. I just hope it's reliable.

I did think the lambda controlled AFR during part throttle cruising etc. If that's not the case it's next to useless as the copot can bring emissions down to within 3% but then it's not really worth removing if it can't mess with the remap.

The Nira i3+ system I've been looking at is overkill for this engine but I'm looking at it as something I don't want to be buying again in the next 10 years. Costs about £1000 and seems to be geared towards professional motorsport, they sell an EGT probe described as having integrated circuitry that the system is design to work well with, but I think it's an Audi 2.7T or 1.8T item. Volvo motorsport use their ECU's as well as koenigsegg. Thing is though there is little information on the ECU on the web unless your fluent in swedish so if I had problems I'd only be able to go to one person locally (40 miles) and he's not exactly easy to get hold of.

The other option of a DTAS80 is looking more attractive still £800 though. There's plenty info around and people to ask and there headquarters is like 40 miles away. Emerald isn't exactly cheap though at £650!!

As for Emerald, Wayne literally said "DON'T" he told me a few stories and then the engine builder I spoke to later told me another. Not prompted by me I might add. We were talking about how difficult Wayne was to get hold of and he started talking about a car that had an emerald ECU installed in it at emerald and how the bottom end needed a rebuild due to it running super rich during the running in phase. The guy who's car it was knew jack about engines and was in the hands of professionals but yes it didn't sound good. Plus when someone is standing next to a very expensive looking rally car or £250,000 stripped out racing porsche on his rollers talking about engine management it's really hard not to take notice! His rpm pickup on his RR is still broke though!

Well looks like we are good to go! Operation GOOD HEAD is a go!

Head is off! Only bashed broke finger once!

Cooolus poooopus! So is the new one going on tomorrow then? I bet you're well excited

mrbeige wrote:Cooolus poooopus! So is the new one going on tomorrow then? I bet you're well excited

Yeep no wife, no kids, just me and that engine bay for 24hrs! Don't get me wrong I do love them, but you need to be selfish and have break every now and then! Gone through about 20 pairs of rubber gloves though but my hands are mint!

350cc injectors arrived this morning. Spent last night degreeing the schrick 268/276 cam, by the way the 268/276 bit is pure fiction, more like 260/268 seat to seat. Anyway got DD2003 out and decided I wanted to eliminate the many attempts at modeling the G60 supercharger. So ran the same engine setups with all the different superchargers in the library and it would appear the schrick cam with the new head flow figures and this bottom end always shows a good improvement with any supercharger if it is retard 8-10˚ at the crank (4-5˚ Camshaft Degrees)At the mid to top end with no loss of bottom end torque. The same is not true with the old head any attempt to retard timing just loses you the bottom end torque and gains you nothing at the top due to the head restriction!

So I setup the cam with a degree wheel I have just need to make sure the engine is at TDC to get this spot on but it can be tweaked on the RR after mapping if I think there's need.

Found a local ANSU company to clean and test the injectors. I'll drop them off on monday morning! I'll post graphs and explain more about the cam tonight.

Oh by the way 8-10˚ sounds a lot, it's half a tooth adjustment. 360*2/44teeth/2=8.18˚

have you still got that vernier?

Yes I never sold it in the end. It's on the cam now setup!

Ooops correction just rechecked the engine setups I was using and I would of seen a 10% increase in power and 8% torque if I set my old standard head up this way. According to DD2003! Which of course is all theory! 15% and 10% for the new head! Damn I wish I'd known this before I fitted the old engine! Knowledge is power, literally! OK I'm getting carried away but anyway theory stacks up lets see what reality makes of it all!

Where's the EPIC FAIL smilie? No compression whatsoever on cylinders 1,2 and 3 and cylinder 4 makes a massive 5.5bar! WTF I have no idea what's going on. I'm very confused! Time for drink I think! Worse of it is I now have no transport until I can figure this **** out!

WTF ???

Yep just really confused doesn't seem possible to not register any compression on three cylinders. Unless the cam was completely out of phase, which it isn't! No I just don't get it!

just a poor gasket seal for some reason ??????????????

that makes no sense at all.i'd be lost..
i'll have a think.maybe someone else can offer something constructive.
blimey.

I'm starting to think I somehow bent the valves when installing the cam or setting up the cam timing. But I felt no resistance or difficulty turning the engine. If that's not it then the valves are sticking in the guides or aren't seating correctly. Can't be the headgasket as you would get some comprseesion.

Either way I think the head will be coming off again and then what put my old 1.8 head on from the original engine and then do it all again when the new head is fixed. 4lck me it's bad enough doing the job once with that b'stard g-werks mani nevermind 3 times! Oh I think I would rather die!!!!!!!!!!

take the head off first..go from there.maybe get some new head bolts and compression check with your old head with same cam settings maybe.Just leave zaust manni off for now.
how far did you get with the reassembly?

It was ready to start, I optimistically put the timing gun on the bat. and on spark lead one!

hmm..best to sulk for a while then start stripping it down.Either way head has to come off if you have no compression.

Sulking with alcohol as we speak.

TPS TB arrived yesterday from America, 350cc injectors are getting tested and cleaned, just ordered a new bosch lambda of ebay. And the car is in bits and imobile.

head off yet?