DIrtyTorque's odd corner.

Toad wrote:Well done Rob

Should be heading to Newbury this week at some point if it is easier to meet me to collect that hub, and the other thing you asked about which I haven't remembered...

Thnks.Yeah Newbury one eve would be good.Drop me a pm if u pls .

debug time.
Been running for a week,but running rough.
Discovered it was only running on two cylinders so I traced the offending cylinders back to a component on MS.My fault faulty wiring.Fixed that.
Running slightly better but still not right and no matter what I didn couldn't get a vacuum reading in MS.Was just showing up as seeing atmospheric pressure only .looked for leaks and couldn't find any.Fitted a vac/boost guage to check if the map sensor was working and it was reading correctly,then i remembered an assumption I made while doing my install.The assumption was that the two bleed of nipples at the back of the g60 TB see manifold pressure.I took the TB off and tested them with a syrienge of water and they don't.
I had the top nipple connected to my fpr.This sees manifold pressure.Fine.The bottom one however only ever sees mainly atmospheric pressure.This is what MS is seeing at the moment and so the fueling will be way off .
So i'll have to re-think my vac install.
Also i don't trust my coolant temp readings which again won't be helping cold starts etc so this needs re-calibrating too.

On the positive side of the news,tensioner system is holding out so far.can't wait to test the whole thing under load now.

Ok,i'll shut up.Random pics as usual.

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starting and idling well now and revving cleanly,to the point where I am considering taking it off axel stands.
The only thing is that it's not pulling as much vacuum as i would like.

60 kpa.
Would of liked to see 30-40 kpa.
I have played with the advance and fueling but I can't get it any lower.It is just where the engine likes to idle.
Could be a vac leak I guess compression is fine.the lowest was 175 psi(12 bar) in cyliner 4,and all the rest were very close around that mark.

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Would liek to get the engine sucking as hard as poss b4 i move on but it may just be that with this setup that is where the idle MAP is going to sit.

dunno.

Pulling 36 kpa now @ idle rpm.Engine sucking well.
Problem was retarded cam timing.Everything as per the haynes manual now.
Idling alot stronger as you'd expect and time to strat thinking of driving it.

Good work mate

Wow, beautiful set-up.....looks OEM!

thnks gents.
I'd like to improve the presentation a bit more later.I'm not happy with the fuel pipe run and the rocker cover needs sorting but I am relatively happy with how it looks.Much more interested to find out how it drives now.

Just need a damn pas pump for a 9a engine,or atleast the 9a pas pulley.

random pics.
connected up the tach signal to my clocks and just checked my oil pressure at idle once engine is warm.


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Awesome work Rob!

Thnks.
I started the car yesterday a couple of times just to listen to it.


I'm in love.
'm trying to keep a level head and still carry on working logically in the way that got me to this point.
I really want some sort of DET management in thissetup.That will be my winter project.I don't want to do any performance tuning/rolling road sessions etc until that is in place.
The most immediate thing to do is to get it driveable with a safe map and through the MOT,which should be fine as it is holding lambda at idle very steadily.Better than my 8v did infact.
Hope no more gremlins pop up.

Have had a bit of differculty with the transition from warmup to normal running fueling wise.
I worked out that it was because I had the transition set at the same point where the radiator fan came on,and so it would switch cut the warmup enrichment and then just as it did the fan would come on the engine temp would drop and then warmup enrichment would kick in again making it hard to just tune warm engine idle because the enrichment would keep kicking in disrupting things.
So I have moved the warm running temp back 10 degrees or so.
With the 440 cc injectors idle pulsewidths are just under 2.0 mecs which is a bit border line really as the injectors barely have time to open before they have to shut again.Anyway another vid as well lets face it i just like sticking them up.engine sounds noiser than it is btw.Must be the microphone ..

oh and a big thanks to Stu for the free coolant gauge.
It has been a big help .
Cheers mate.

Can't you use the EGT as a guide for det control?

No,not really.
Well maybe,if you could get some sort of temperature signature under Det conditions..

btw,do you idle at about that temperature.
300 degrees ??

Err no idle is 450˚C iirc haven't used it for a month!

ctwg60 wrote:Err no idle is 450˚C iirc haven't used it for a month!

the gauge or the car???
Going everywhere on horse back?

I guess every car is different.You havn't wrapped your zaust manni either have u..

dirtytorque wrote:

ctwg60 wrote:Err no idle is 450˚C iirc haven't used it for a month!

the gauge or the car???
Going everywhere on horse back?

I guess every car is different.You havn't wrapped your zaust manni either have u..

The gauge, I have it on a manual switch and don't turn it on much as it is always the same and the daily commute isn't exactly a strain for the engine

No my exhaust is naked, is your EGT in the same position? Mine's 4" from the gasket face on cylinder 1.

dirtytorque wrote:oh and a big thanks to Stu for the free coolant gauge.
It has been a big help .
Cheers mate.

My pleasure! I love seeing bits of Badcrumble helping other Rado owners out!

Just one thing stopping me from going for a drive.
It's really pi$$ing me off actually.
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my front coolant flange has a slight nose bleed.
It's only dripping a tiny amount but I don't like it.
I have a new gasket in there and I have the bolts torqued to 10 nm.
Could it be the flange is slightly warped?
The head was checked for straightness and professionally re-built etc,but i guess they would have only checked the head to block face.
Can I use gasket seal?
In fact,are you suppose to?
GRRRRrrrrr...

I'd use gasket seal myself

mrbeige wrote:I'd use gasket seal myself

Yeah,fluck it.I'll be here this time next year at this rate.
I'll do that and then order a another flange and gasket on tuesday to appease my conscience.

So, did you take it for a drive?

Brakes sorted? How are the repercussions from the brake bleeding kit?

The head flange probably is warped mate, the one on my water pump was FUBAR, you could sit it on a flat surface and rock it to and fro!

Hope you get it all fixed (I'd plump up the £10ish and get a new VAG flange )

Almost there!

boost panda wrote:The head flange probably is warped mate, the one on my water pump was FUBAR, you could sit it on a flat surface and rock it to and fro!

Hope you get it all fixed (I'd plump up the £10ish and get a new VAG flange )

Almost there!

yeah went to see my family at the vw parts desk in sluff.They were worried as they hadn't seen me in days.

I'll pick up the flange today.So still not put the front end on and still no drive,unless you call reversing out of my drive and then driving back in a journey?

My break pedal feel at the momment is a tad limp wristed.
Ezee bleed my arse.
Maybe i'll try bleeding the master cylinder today..
ABS on while bleeding maybe ?Read different things about that

I know ProdigalSon had to cycle his ABS unit valves with the VAGCOM lead when he bled his brakes to make sure ALL the air was out. Have you tried that?