Replacing valve guides and stem seals on VR head

How difficult is this to do? I did my valver stem seals, so would it be safe to assume that it's as easy on a VR head? I have a valve spring compressor that works on a valver head, will that work on a VR head?

I read an article in PPC on how to do valve guides, using a heat gun and a lathe turned bolt with a shoulder on it, to smack the old ones out, and then sticking the new ones in a freezer. How easy is it really?

Done it a couple of times in the past, on a Mini 1275 A series head and a 8V GTI head with good results. I didn't freeze the guides though. Didn't know I had to at the time. Seemed to work OK though.

Not done a VR6 head though, I let the credit card do it for me

One thing I would do differently though if DIY'ing a head is to fit new valves (cheap from america), and buy a proper valve seat cutter and some reamers. Saves so much time!

Depends what kind of job you want though. If you want a fit and forget head all nicely skimmed and ready to go, I'd just give it to a refurber personally. Scholar do a brilliant job in my experience.... charged £300 to do an 8V head for me in 1996. I hate to think what that is in today's rates!!

Do you need to get the heads skimmed, as a matter of course? I didn't with my valver, and had no issues.

Is it really necessary to fit new valves? Can I not just lap in the old ones again?

No, but on the VR6 I would personally as they have a tendency to leak if using the 3 layer MK4 gasket. Although you can still get the original Victor Reinz OE spec thicker gaskers, which take up more of the surface imperfections.

Again, on the valves it's your choice. Since you have to ream the guides out to stem diameter properly, it helps if they're all the same diameter to start with. Obviously the valves are made of a harder material than the guides and can be reused in many cases, but I prefer to use new parts, especially as I can get them cheap from Schimmel. It was from that perspective I was saying about replacement, not the valve seat cutting.

Oh, I see. So what would set of valves normally set me back then?

mrbeige wrote:Do you need to get the heads skimmed, as a matter of course? I didn't with my valver, and had no issues.

Is it really necessary to fit new valves? Can I not just lap in the old ones again?

u take your chances but if u have a prob later you'll be pi$$ed.

dirtyboy wrote:
u take your chances but if u have a prob later you'll be pi$$ed.

this is very true...

Indeed, if you're going to do it, do it properly the 1st time

Not sure on the valve price. I would use Ferrea or Supertech, both have a reputation for being good quality.

New valves from VW cost a fair amount, so I wouldn't go down that road. Stealth usually reuse VR6 valves so long as they're still in spec, and obviously burnt out exhaust valves are replaced, but it's all included in the rebuild price.

So, for these Supertech Performance Valves are these 'performance, as in upgraded, as they are nitrided? I found some Supertech valves on a US site for $17, which would of course be cheaper...