Twin wishbones at the front please!

Sounds awesome Before my 16v I had a fiat uno. the golf felt like a @#!*% tank after that thing! felt much much safer in it

Just did some research and found this build on fourtitude:

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The guy did a 12.9..... with 17psi. I think that says a lot for the state of tune and management!

Boost, you have to build the engine to get what you want from it, this is why a lot of folks sell so soon after completion as it just does not do/perform as they expect it to.

So if you want fast quarter mile times then the engine needs building with that in mind but the really important part comes with the mapping and someone who knows how to map effectively.

Personally I would rather have a nice flat torque curve than anything else as it makes for superb driveability.

8v to 16v is pretty easy, you will need a complete donor engine but more importantly the fuel pump needs swapping as well.

I still want to build an ABF supercharger & turbocharged engine and run it like the 1.4 TFSI unit, electromagnetic clutch on the supercharger to take it off line above 4250 RPM means I can stick a small pulley on it and run a slightly larger turbo as it does not need to start making proper boost until 3750 RPM upwards. I could also have a silly rev limit of 9k if the charger is 'switched off' without having to worry about melting it, that would make great use of the turbo end of the setup too.

But only a 12.9 when using over a bar of boost? Seems a bit undertuned to me.

I'd want drivability too, it's so much more useful as opposed to a little peak on a torque curve somewhere.

Ok, that should be fine. I still have a boxed 16v pump assembly that never made it onto the plum. I keep forgetting the 16v runs higher fuel pressure.

That would be good. I'd like to try a twin charged engine, or at least be involved in it (hint hint). I think once you've mastered the clutched supercharger, the rest is just a normal turbo build?perhaps slightly lower comp to allow for any boost overlaps.

There's something not right about US 1/4 times. UK cars with the same power never match their numbers. It all seems a tad fishy to me, but I don't know the full reasons for it.

Some of the reason is the yanks take 1/4 miles very seriously. For starters they usually empty the car of all it's interior, fit solid rear suspension and fit massive Mickey Thompson slicks to the driven wheels. The UK 1/4 mile scene is more 'run what ya brung' in full road trim and tyres. It all helps get the ET down. Personally, I've never seen the big deal with 1/4 miles. It's never interested me. Even if I had a car that could do it in the 10s, I still wouldn't drag it

Anyway, build a nice 16V T, honestly you will love it. The first turbo technics 16V corrado Stealth built is *still* going strong. It was in the shop getting a service last time I was there, having covered over 200K....since the turbo conversion. Bodywork is a bit tatty now, but the motor is sweet as a nut.

Yeah it's all good to see what your engine can do, but running your Mk3 golf or some such on Hoosiers and then rolling down the street saying it's a 12second car are just two different things imo.

The Corrado 16vt i posted is a daily with full trim which posts low 11s. His wife uses it everyday for the school run on low boost I think! So there are some Yanks who are doing it right His build spec is long and expensive though, they have a website somewhere. Ah, website is down but build is still on Vortex.

It's running 2bar and making 400whp. quite respectable for a daily.

ABF from Mk3 Golf c/w stand - £200

Tempting auction...!

boost panda wrote:ABF from Mk3 Golf c/w stand - £200

Tempting auction...!

Yeah spotted that and I used to live in Farham when I was a nipper.

The collection is an issue mind for me though

I have already worked out the overlap control (dump valve will handle any overboost) and my aftermarket ECU has all sorts of extra control functions - I am just frigging the a/c to come on and off and odd points in the rev range when you think about it. As for lower comp, my current setup is more than ok at 8.5:1 but I would go for similar (probably 8.8ish:1) on an ABF in a twincharged setup. Not happening for a while yet though, need to get the current setup reliable, sell a load of left over bits (probably going to build another 16VG60 engine running stacked headgaskets as I have enough bits!!) and then start working on collecting all the parts for an ABF twincharged! BBM supply some very nice exhaust fannymoulds etc.

Kev, yeah I don't get the quarter mile thing either but it's Yank motoring history that gives them so much emphasis on it, it's part of their large block, straight road car culture.

Go for a 16v ABF turbo, you won't be disappointed once it's all mapped up ok, the 16v head just flows so much better than the 8v item and turbos do love flow..

The money is an issue for me! but nevermind. Uni finishes in 4 weeks (unless I fail something, but I don't wanna talk about that) and then hopefully it's a full-time design job which would be great. I was wondering if I could freelance over the summer whilst I'm looking for something more permanent. Perhaps.

Sounds like the engine plan has come together quickly! I'm still convincing Prod to do a 16v G60. Apart from the management, we have everything between us to do one.


Mmmm, I like that idea. I think the Plum will be 16vt, and the golf may get the old 16v if the head is good, then rebuild the block I have in the shed. Good times.

Yan, what you working on these days, still aerospace stuff?

boost panda wrote:
The money is an issue for me! but nevermind. Uni finishes in 4 weeks (unless I fail something, but I don't wanna talk about that) and then hopefully it's a full-time design job which would be great. I was wondering if I could freelance over the summer whilst I'm looking for something more permanent. Perhaps.

Sounds like the engine plan has come together quickly! I'm still convincing Prod to do a 16v G60. Apart from the management, we have everything between us to do one.


Mmmm, I like that idea. I think the Plum will be 16vt, and the golf may get the old 16v if the head is good, then rebuild the block I have in the shed. Good times.

Yan, what you working on these days, still aerospace stuff?

Yeah, its small fast pointy crap these days although I prefer the larger truck stuff, need to get posted down to Brize Norton on the new A330 FSTAs. That would get me a JAR66 license and type approval for Airbus A330 (albeit the military version) and then in another 6 years I can **** can this RAF rubbish and go civil and get paid a much bigger wedge for doing so (as well as keeping my RAF pension).

16vG60 conversion, talk to me before you do there are so many different ways to do it, as for if it's worth it - as mine is not mapped and I have not driven it since sorting out the low compression issue I can't say. Id did go for a ride in John Mitchells conversion years ago and it was quicker than Henny's very tweaked G60 (about 225bhp).

If you move to Brize you better look me up!

I will let you know. Knowing him though nothing will happen, but here's hoping...!

Where has Kev got to? I hope his engine didn't let go, explode through the firewall and spill molten boost everywhere

boost panda wrote:Where has Kev got to? I hope his engine didn't let go, explode through the firewall and spill molten boost everywhere

It's Easter weekend he wont be at work.

Ah yes. Being a student I am immune to remembering public holidays as we are on campus 90% of the time anyways :/

Here Yan, you don't have an early mk2 MFA stalks lying about do you? The ones with the white molex connector. I snapped mine on the drive home of my new 8v gti (coverage on CF).

boost panda wrote:Ah yes. Being a student I am immune to remembering public holidays as we are on campus 90% of the time anyways :/

Here Yan, you don't have an early mk2 MFA stalks lying about do you? The ones with the white molex connector. I snapped mine on the drive home of my new 8v gti (coverage on CF).

Nope the only mk 2 I ever owned was a J plate so very late for a mk 2, although I would love another mk 2 Mrs Yan would probably kill me.

That and finding a decent one is getting harder without forking over a lot more than I just paid for a VR that needs a bit of work.

Very true.

we managed to fix it today, at least for the MOT. the brass switchgear was corroded, so a few attacks with a nail file and all is well. I still want to replace the stalk if I can find an early one though.

So is this car #3?

Strictly speaking its rado number 4 but the 2nd VR.

1st Vr6 was a sherry pearl with black leather, I sold that when I bought the nugget.

Been fighting with the front suspension replacement most of the day (already had them all built up ready to go on and most of the old stuff was already off.)

Couldn't get the bloody ball joints apart with either of my splitters so had to go and buy another one (have all 3 types now!) and then it fecking pissed it down for 2 hours. Got back out there and had a massive fight with the O/S/F wishbone, finally got it all on both sides and the smegging drive shaft has popped out on the O/S/F inner!

So spot of swearing and it I will have to remove the inner CV boot tomorrow and stick that bloody circlip back in the grove. Back end should take about an hour both sides and then it will be onto refitting the rear parcel shelf supports, replacing the rear beam brake line, refitting the passenger and drivers lower dash shelves and then hopefully getting the brakes bleed before starting the radiator swap (I will change the oil, plugs and belt whilst the front end is off).

It's been an epic amount of work in a short space of time and I have never cleaned a rado quite so much before (nearly ever interior part has been cleaned on both/all sides! Just need to clean up the leather interior I have for the nugget now and get that fitted - going to swap the bolster and back panel from the cloth passenger seat to the leather drivers seat first though.

Wow, that sounds like a lot of work!

lower balljoints are horrid aren't they? I've reverted to bracing a breaker bar across the wishbone from above and just jumping on it! The PAS balljoint is the only one that I have been able to use the proper tool on.

Yeah, I can sympathise with the inner CV too, that happened on my golf when I replaced the engine :/ not fun. Did you manage to get it sorted today?

Sounds like you're busy over the BH weekend! I'm hoping to actually wash the golf and plum tomorrow. The plum has a lovely layer of pollen/dust on it at the mo. It would be so good to actually do something to that car. I just think of all the brand new parts on it not doing anything - i'm hoping the suspension has held up. I mean it hasn't moved so it should be fine.

As the missus was driving the car tonight and I was outside, I think the exhaust is blowing a little so will have to check that out in the morning.

Yeah made progress today, got all the interior back in except for the drivers door card and drivers seat - its a shed load cleaner than it was when I started to pretty pleased; been getting plenty of plastic welding practice too.

Changed the fuel filter today, pump was making a right noise before hand, now its very quiet, not suprised given its the original filter and there was only around a inch square that wasn't rusty.

Bled the brakes post pipe changes, fluid was horrible but luckily the old electric bleeder makes things nice and easy (ish). Both front brake nipples sheared despite a heavy attack of penetrating oil, got them out with a muti-pronged attack of blow torch, followed quickly by freeze spray then an Irwin bolt gripper being hit by a hammer - they did come out ok then

Still got to replace the radiator and tidy up the engine bay but it is coming together now (finally).

Oh and bargin of the week on ebay - just bought 2 full genuine outer CV joint kits (not just the bellows the whole lot) for a VR for the princely sum of 39.98 delivered - they are £200 a side from VAG for the exchange items!

Wow, good work! How do you weld plastics? And do you mean interior trim panels? I thought they were thermosetting and as such are pretty much unchangeable once they break :/

Sounds like you got to the fuel filter just in time. The Plum one used to bounce around, I think the accumulator was only being held in place by the banjos! Hence buying the new OEM setup.

I hate it when caliper nipples shear, it seems such a dark art to be able to redeem some of them! Prodigal has 3 new calipers on his G60. Nuff said really. Sounds like you basically ran through the heat and force range. Nice

Sounds good to me. I wiped the underside of the Golf bonnet today which came up incredibly well. Also, no soundproofing which makes me think mk2 engines quieter than Corrado? or just more NVH prep / comfort level for the C.

Damn, that's amazing! You cant even get a pattern driveshaft for that much. I love how driveshafts are pretty universal too, at least for the Mk2-esque cars.

Random q: what is so special about the 9A foot pedal cluster?

Dunno about the 9A pedal cluster.

Ironically the 2 outer CV joints are ABF (VR6 only) due to the tapered splines.

The C got a lot more sound deadening compared to a mk 2 or even a mk 3, if you look at all the hand applied felt on the back of the trim panels you can see the lengths they went to make it quiet and refined.

You can get under bonnet sound deading for the mk2, I have some in the roof from the late 8v I stripped down before it went to the breakers post write off.

Plastic welding, just bought a kit off the guy I got the plating kit from, it's only a high wattage soldering iron and a selection of plastics rods - it seems to work pretty well but I need to measure the long term durability. Luckily the front splitter is cracked so I get to see how good a job I can do on that as well....

Fair enough.

I got an advisory on the golf this week at the MOT that one of my CV joints may be incorrect as there isn't much clearance! Previous owners are so annoying!

Ah ok fair enough I don't hear the engine much, but it's only a little 8v.

That does sound useful. Especially with how brittle certain plastics get! I smashed BOTH the rear numberplate light covers (clear plastic bulbous things) this week when changing the actual bulbs for the MOT. insane. There's no way they were that brittle when made. Stupid 80s polymer technology!!

Found out the pedal cluster is a Corrado thing, not a 9A thing.

It's to do with putting the VR6 into older cars, like the Mk2 Golf, something about the hydraulic clutch arrangement and needing the pedal?

Either way, I threw it up on the bay last night for £25 + postage and it's sold.

boost panda wrote:Found out the pedal cluster is a Corrado thing, not a 9A thing.

It's to do with putting the VR6 into older cars, like the Mk2 Golf, something about the hydraulic clutch arrangement and needing the pedal?

Either way, I threw it up on the bay last night for £25 + postage and it's sold.

Yeah, rados use a hyd actuated clutch with the master cylinder on the bulkhead attached to the fittings on the pedal box - reason for the hyd clutch is that all 'rados use the larger 228mm flywheel and clutch to suit the 02A box.

The mk 2 boxes are all cable cx bar the limited and G60 models IIRC.

So, the OU seems to be a little dead at the mo :/

What is everyone up to? I'm married now, and starting to allow myself a Corrado budget each month, perhaps £100. It will be slow getting started again as I need to fix the crane before I even take the dead KR out.

I'm looking forward to getting it back on the road though. I'm starting to miss it, which is good as I have motivation(!)

Post up a quick update of any mini projects you're into right now