gearbox problem/LSD debate

as promised in my hello message, I have a question or 2...

Have a gearbox problem and hoping for some advice please. Also thought I'd try to start a discussion on which LSD is best...

I’ve got a 95 Corrado VR6 (have heard about different gearboxes – don’t know what the difference is but will mine be 02A?) Problem on mine is a clicking noise which only ever happens in 1st gear. I was hoping that it might be CV joints but apparently the noise comes from within the gearbox and is travelling down the driveshafts. Have taken it to a gearbox specialist who had a listen and he thinks that the pinion bearings are on their way out – his opinion is that they are good gearboxes but that after nearly 157k miles, metal fatigue is to blame.

So I think I have 3 options...
1. Buy a replacement 2nd hand gearbox and get that fitted (have seen a 67k mile one on CF for £75 plus fitting cost of £180) £255
2. Get my current one reconditioned = ~£500
3. Buy an LSD = ~£850 inc fitting??????

Any comments on which to do?

I am tempted to go for an LSD and have been looking into the options - I understand that Peloquin and Quaife are very similar (something about Quaife only applying for a UK patent?) but don’t know which is a better bet. Have also heard about Wavetrack but know even less about those. So who has got an LSD and what are your opinions - pros/cons of having one at all, which make etc?

Hi you have a 02A box in yours and fitting an LSD to mine was the best thing ive done to date,it was a peloquin as it was cheaper than the quaife shipped over etc.

Also Peloquin come with a fitting kit,diff bearings,speedo worm gear and cover seals unlike quife but they are near identical on how the work and quality wise they are about the same.

Peloquine had some issues with diff bolts comming undone but the design has changed and you get screw in bolts with lock tabs.

The wavetrack has a lockable centre and the idea is good but i stuck with tried and tested.

No point in buying a high miles box as it could be just as bad.

I would splash out and get you current box built with an lsd and have a set of bearing fitted with what ever else is nessary.

thanks for that info. I agree about not getting a 2nd hand one... I'm nervous about not really knowing the condition of it until it is on the car - it could be an expensive mistake

Faye, I'm more than happy to fit the box, as I said last night, so that should save you a fair wedge. If you want over the winter, providing we have the new building built, we can pulll your old box out and send it off for peliquining. :p

Oh and to add to this... Lower final drive? while the box is getting a diff, is this worth doing? What do you need? G60 final drive?

Yes, a lower final drive is exactly what the VR6 needs.

I would only buy an LSD if you plan on actually using it. I.e. prodding the gas mid bend to get it working. If you coast round corners or take them slowly, there's really no point in having one imo.

The only advantage of the Wavetrack over the Quaife design is it works in no load conditions aswell, but whether that has any real world benefits, I'm not sure.

Personally I would get the 67K box, replace 1st/2nd synchro and the layshaft and input shaft bearings, stick a quaife in it and a G60 final drive.

I wouldn't get a high mileage s/hand box. Mine's done 175K and the gear backlash is getting bloody nosiy now.

I dont think the lower final drive is something to go for If most of you driving relaxed or motorway journeys as the lower FD will increase the revs to aprox 500rpm more and you will feel like you will need that extra "6th" gear you dont have and MPG will also go down.

It really depends on your drving style on what type of box you will need.

I fitted a new Peloquin on my hybrided VR6 cogged 'box and i think it's 1
of the best bits i ever bought,i got the compleat kit off Niel on the corrado forum,great deal.
I fitted it my self without any special tools and without listening to
all the hyp about pre loads,obviously,you don't want the diff. locking up
while you close the cases but it's also a bit of common sense..
I've done over 2500km since fitting it and have had no problems.
I also bought off Neil a used CCM Vr gear set,once again no problems,funny noises etc.
I've got photos of the job and the various bits but i don't know how to upload the sods.

VEEDUBBED wrote:I've got photos of the job and the various bits but i don't know how to upload the sods.

See my post in the turbo rebuild thread

VEEDUBBED wrote:I fitted it my self without any special tools and without listening to all the hyp about pre loads,

LOL, so you know better than VW then?

If you reuse the existing shims then of course you're going to get the preloads right 8 times in 10. The 2 times in 10 when you have to reshim the preloads from scratch, think about what you said above 10 minutes after the diff crown wheel and shaft have stripped their teeth off

All depends Kev,
I checked the pre-load by using the patented VEEDUBBED method mate,get a screw driver and push the crownwheel's teeth thru the oil drain hole on the bottom of the gearbox casing,(both casings closed bolted toghter) when you can move the crown wheel without undue force 99% of the time it's ok.
Oh,i forgot to add,it also depends on how the new diff. bearings were installed,i always measure the potrudence of the old races first,normally about 11mm when measuring the top of the bearing race to the end of the
diff's outlet stubs(?).
I would'nt dare recommend that this kind of job should be undertaken by
somebody whoose got naff all experience,so many things to go wrong..

Nice one, glad that worked for you

There are a few variables as you say, but it's just the hassle of bolting the gear casing together every time to check it..... it can take ages to get right!