2008cc 8.75:1 CR 3A G60 build.

Well I got the wiring all plugged back in, plumbing done bar the Rad, torqued up the pulley bolt to 90nm but flucked if I could get another 1/2 turn on it need to take it to a garage with a ramp.

Blocked off the engine breather with a cir-clip and 1/4" -1/2" ratchet adapter in the reducer hose as I could be bothered figuring out the plumbing of it.

Battery is attached (nice to hear the central locking again) and best thing is I very quickly got the EGT hooked up off the battery on a manual switch and it said 11˚C, checked it's reading against my multimeter and it was spot on, well 12˚C on the meter.

Gearbox linkages are now on and clutch slave attached but still needs bleeding. Bloody hell it's a fair old job putting an engine back together and into a car, lots to worry about etc.

Rain stopped play and don't have any pictures of real interest but here is two anyway.



I don't know why I doubted it.
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Will it ever move again under it's own power?
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Tried driving the oil pump with a drill, tried cranking the engine, tried starting the engine for a few seconds not smart move but wanted to see if the oil light would stop flashing. It did not!

Help!!

Did you fill the pump with oil before installing it?

Toad wrote:Did you fill the pump with oil before installing it?

Well when I was installing the oil pump the engine was upside down so the oil would of run out the block front onto the garage floor so no I did not. Then didn't think to pore oil down the oil-take-off feed hole to fill the pump. But then it would of ran out into the sump before I had chance to start the engine which was about a week later.

I think you need some oil in the pump so that it can develop suction. Can't remember what I did with my pump when I changed it though.

Toad wrote:I think you need some oil in the pump so that it can develop suction. Can't remember what I did with my pump when I changed it though.

I think I'm just going to drink lots of beer for now and think about my options.

Sump dropping and oil pump removal time I think

Toad wrote:Sump dropping and oil pump removal time I think

Crazy idea that's probably bad but what if I overfill the engine with oil to submerge the pump and and then use a drill to get pressure. I'd rather spend £40 on oil than take anything to bits. Obviously I'd drain the excess once the pump was functioning.

It's a bad idea isn't it??

I'm not sure...

it's not really a huge job to change the oil pump,although I can understand why u are loathed to.

Its either take the pump off and fill it with oil or run the car until it starts to quieten down.
One way is easy but anxious,the other a bit harder but safer.
heheh.

Some people pack them with vaseline.
Oil pumps that is.

how long did you crank the engine for? are the plugs out? when you assembaled the new motor are all the shells,bores etc lubed up?

You should be able to crank it over as above for at least 10 sec and oil pressues should build up.

Is your oil light working? can you see oil at the top end?

To be honest Rob I've never heard a new engine fire up before but this one sounds bloody awful compared to the 120k old engine. And it makes me think would it sound better with oil!!

So no I won't be running the engine until it either quietens down or ceases up!!

To be honest it's been 18 months doing this and I need to slow down I think and do my best for it but rain, weather and winter daylight is starting to get to me.

I cut my finger today on a head gasket. WTF! 4cking Oww twas like a b'stard razor blade.

I can't stand it when my car is off the road for more than a few weeks.

Pro built bottom end all lubed up well, cranking does nothing for the oil pressure. I think it's a case of the oil pump being completely dry of oil. Damn!

I'm Cammed!!

handy to know for when i rebuild mine, am i cammed yet?

*edit* wahoo im cammed

ctwg60 wrote:Pro built bottom end all lubed up well, cranking does nothing for the oil pressure. I think it's a case of the oil pump being completely dry of oil. Damn!

I'm Cammed!!

ive lost count how many new pumps ive fitted and they have all primed with no problem,i would make sure that the intermadiate shaft is installed as something is a miss bud..

It's now sorted. Started to take the sump off and then thought sod this and did a bit more with the hand drill and and old dizzy shaft in forward and reverse and finally got a re-assuring oil-like resistance. Engine is much quieter and idles nicley.

But i now have the next problem.........

Any attempt to open the throttle results in the engine dying or over reving dropping revs and the reving again with the odd backfire thrown in for good measure.

Not to bothered about this problem I'm sure I'll be able to sort it with forum help, so should get some sleep tonight.

Glad the oil problem is sorted now.

Haven't the foggiest clue about the running issue though

maybe the tappets need to get oil in them before they come to life?

If not sounds like timing out or ecu vac line off

sounds like Vac to me too.
I know u said the 100 meter vac pipe is on.
what about the other one that goes to the second vac port on the throttle.

The one that is part of the carbon canister setup?

I'm going to get a video up later with commentary . I know you spotted that pipe off at santa pod but no I don't think it's that and it's attached and I've run with it off before with the old engine.

The dizzy internals are untested!! but surely they are a very simple set of electronics and I would get good starts and idle with it.

Any way I think it's either, damp in the map sensor as it has been open to outside air for 4 weeks or the throttle/idle switch screwed up by me when I tried to take the old engine out without disconnecting the throttle cable, I know I know stupid thing to do.

when it's cold as soon as you come off the idle switch the engine dies I've checked inside the throttle and the butterfly valves haven't even moved by this point!! so the manifold pressure hasn't changed but then I don't know what the idle switch triggers!! when it's released.

Oh so poss that or a wiring issue/short somewhere caused when I took the old tape off and rewrapped it.

Ok it's sorted turns out the timing was way off gold star for flusted But there was also a problem with the distributor hall send of my own making.

So in all I made three mistakes. I didn't put oil in the pump i didn;t know you could start and engine with a dizzy 30˚ out and the finer points of dizzy dismantling and putting back together.

Have to say Darren at G-Werks helped me pin down the problem. Good bloke!

Engine is now revving well and ready to have the front end put back on and a few loose ends tidying up. probably about 3 hours work on Friday will se me in the driving seat. woo hoo!!

Any administrator could you move this thread onto the end of my build thread? tks!

[mod edit]Merged as per your request Beigy

Tks Beigy!

Here are some images of my manifold with the timing way out at idle.

OMFG Needless to say I got the temps back down quickly by turning the dizzy slightly before setting the timing up when the engine was warm.

Th flash went off and makes it look like it's only red down the bottom but believe me the whole manifold from the head to under the car was glowing red hot! Looked like an F1 manifold on a dyno. It was at night so it was much more noticeable.

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EGT said around 800˚C at idle. not good!

Looks toasty.

Christ that doesn't look particularly cool!

That wouldn't have done any damage to the engine would it?