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Top Mounts. Cooltext403300291


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Top Mounts. Cooltext403300291
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Top Mounts.

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Post by dirtytorque Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:01 am

easy to change?
Can some do a quick run through in easy speak please?

ta.
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Post by mrbeige Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:27 am

Yup, I did the ones on the VR in like 40mins. Loosen top nut 21mm I think, but you'll need a heavily cranked ring spanner and ideally a 6 sided 10mm (or 11mm I can't remember) socket.

Loosen off the top captive nut, jack car up, undo nut completely, remove the dished topped thingy. The strut should drop down at this point. The next nut holds the top mount in place, but also holds the spring plate down, so I used the top of the turret to stop it pinging off when I did it, by dropping the car down slightly.

Otherwise it's struts off job, and you'll need spring compressors if you are running standard springs.
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Post by Toad Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:18 am

You might have a 22 or 20mm top nut Rob, I know the earlier cars are different. I used the appropriate sized socket, and filed 2 flats onto the socket so I could grip it with a spanner, then put the allen key through the 1/2 square hole.
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Post by dirtytorque Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:29 am

hey hey.

its a 21 mm,on my golf at least. A 1997 gti.Used a cranked ring spanner as Stu advised.
Just got done with the firrst side actually.
I can't go any further as one of the upper spring disc's is damaged.
Putting me at the mercy of the dealers again.
btw
I just took the whole strut out and then used a spring compressor to hold the tension in the spring while I undid the second securing nut.
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Post by Toad Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:47 am

I might have a spring plate....
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Post by mrbeige Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:48 am

I have 2 brand new ones, that are surplus to my requirements. Bought in error, as I thought I needed them. Can't remember how much they were now, though. I'll dig out the reciept later, but is £5 delivered for the pair sound about right??
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Post by Toad Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:51 am

Are you stealing my sale? :p lol

I'm just fiddling with the ipod.
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Post by mrbeige Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:26 am

Sorry dude, thought yours was a second hand one lol. ignore my earlier post then.... lol
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Post by Toad Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:45 pm

mrbeige wrote:Sorry dude, thought yours was a second hand one lol. ignore my earlier post then.... lol

I'm only taking the piss. Laughing
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Post by dirtytorque Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:14 pm

well you'll both be delayed on your way to your next million as I have already purchased and fitted the parts.
thnks for the offers though. Smile
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Post by dirtytorque Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:45 am

The nice MOT man who is making me pay again because it has been 11 days and not 10 is saying that I need to now get my tracking and camber re-done becuase i took the suspension out.
Grrrrr.
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Post by mrbeige Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:55 am

You only need to get the tracking and camber done, if you undid the bottom strut bolts though?? Or did you?
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Post by dirtytorque Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:37 am

Yeah,i took the struts out.It was easier working with them on the floor.
Drives fine but i'll get it all squared up properly then.
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Post by kevhaywire Tue Sep 29, 2009 3:04 am

I always mark the camber angle on the wheel arch liner with tippex and a magnetic laser pointer Very Happy

Works every time. Last time I did it, I thought I'd fecked it up as it was tugging slightly, but on the 4 wheel alignment rig, I was -1.3 deg camber nearside and -1.2 on the offside, and that -0.1 difference tugged the toe out by 0.03 degs Very Happy

Anyway, just thought I'd share that and it's a damn site cheaper than a camber gauge!

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Post by dirtytorque Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:30 am

/\/\/\

cheers I think I kinda waded in without getting all the facts on this one.
I need to do the mounts on the corrado at some point so i'll use that method.
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