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My 2 ton bugswatter

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My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:27 am

Kept meaning to start a build thread on this forum for this car but got sidetracked started it on another forum so I figured I'd let this one catch up and run it side by side on future updates but in the interim a big copy and paste start Whistle

I initially bought the car a couple of years ago fitted Some Bilstein B8's with H&R lowering springs. A can of Barbecue paint and hey presto a nice presentable family car.

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After purchase I discovered I had a spec which wasn't in the brochure, not only did it have full service history incl original hand over documents it also came in a full S6 plus spec.

Blue Alcantara electric seats with Carbon trim

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But all the chrome was black, bose stereo system with build in sub, 8 x 17" plus wheels etc.... So a nice little find.

I started a little test project over a year ago to see how different chipsets behaved in the S6 which was then and still is my daily Hack with results of it no longer running properly due to what assumed to be headgasket failure.

As symptons where split radiator core exhaust gases in water, white coolant smoke etc...

well...... I was wrong infact we had annihilated the poor little K24 turbo, however more to come on that later.


So with the assumption of a nuked headgasket I proceeded to drive the car around with copious amount of blockseal to keep her going just long enough to knock together a new engine for her, so long it wasn't mixing oil and water I figured the engine was coming out anyway so what the heck. After all it is my daily hack and therefore my only access to the rest of the world being out in the sticks.

The plan of attack was to build up another long block using what I had spare and purchasing some other bits in order to do a one/two day swap over a weekend and keep her on the road.

So having sourced an ABY block with good bores and crank, having a multitude of S2 pistons in stock I decided to buy a set of H Beams from PEC giving me room for maneuver on the power band when the time comes.

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I then made up a jig on the lathe so I could clamp the pistons via the wristpin. So I could add accumulator grooves to the stock pistons to aid the prevention of blow by and aid piston stability under high boost figures.

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Next I checked for sideway play on the small end bearing to make sure the secondhand wristpins whee within tolerance

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Before going ahead and balancing them end over end

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Using plastigauge I checked the current oil clearances with the new bearings

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And polished the journals to bring them to spec

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New timing belt pulley, crank bolt, and cleaned front pulley meant it was all ready to balance.

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I sourced a 7A flywheel as it was easier to find and refaced the clutch mating surface

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Before clocking her up on the lathe

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To give her a small 1.5kg diet, I didn't fancy going too light as it would make my clutch choice not too great for a daily on pull away from lights.

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Made up the necessary bob weights so the crank could be balanced to the correct balance factor, and subsequently set myself the challenge to attempt to internally balance the I5 crank incase I wished to change the flywheel at a later date (In standard form they are externally balanced and flywheels are not interchangeable).

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Next I set about prepping the block, starting with a hone

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and chemical clean

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Moving on to the ring gapping

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Ensuring all ring gap ends where radiused before installation

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Fresh clearanced bearings installed ready for the crank

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Final clean of the crank oil galleries before fitment, note the lovely collection of balancing drill holes, punishment for trying to internally balance the crank. In future I decided to make my live easier by only part internally balancing the crank and then matching it to the front pulley as a zero balanced assembly. Giving the same result of being able to use a zero balanced flywheel with a lot less effort.

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Journals lubed up and crank in

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Bores lubed up

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And finally piston and rods fitted

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Last edited by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:33 am; edited 1 time in total

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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:28 am

Zero'd the stretch gauge to a known value (2" in this case)

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So I can use it to measure the length of the ARP rod bolts that came with the H-Beams prior to installation

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So the rod bolts can be torqued up using the stretch method (would've helped if I had photographed the same bolt for both pics Surprised)

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Oil pump stripped down for clearance inspection and cleaning

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Oil pump lubed up prior to re-assembly

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Sachs race clutch, I did contemplate using an organic one but figured I carry a lot of weight in the car at times being a workhorse and the last thing I want to do is have a slipping clutch when fully loaded. The heavy clutch pedal doesn't really concern me, heck it stops the missus driving the car Very Happy

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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:29 am

Chased a tap down the headbolt threads to ensure good thread location on the headstuds

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Decided to use the slightly shorter guide on the intake of the 16v ABF engine and modified them to sit deeper into the head to avoid mechanical damage to the stemseals

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Measured the point of entry into the intake runner and bullet nosed the intakes

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Finished intake ports

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Finished exhaust ports

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Skimmed and deck cooled to aid heat transference away from the combustion chamber for more timing advance when mapping

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As it is a 7A head extra water channels machined

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And cam position sensor fitted

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Last but not least refaced the exhaust face with new studs and nuts fitted. Modified the composite headgasket to drop compression down to 8.7:1. Originally I did contemplate machining the tops of the pistons to drop compression but decided I rather have maximum crown thickness as I intend to aim for around 2 bar on Vpower.

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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:30 am

Being my daily hack with no alternate mode of transport without unnecessary financial outlay the aim was to do the engine swap over a weekend at a friends garage who had a nice 4 poster for convenience.

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So having started saturday morning at around 10am we got stuck in and stripped the engine out the car. Leaving as much as possible connected for ease on the re assembly.

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By the end of the day we had the new engine fitted up with all the ancillary brackets of the old engine ready to be dropped in for Sunday morning.

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An 11 O'clock start and by 4pm we had the front end back together ready for all the fluids to be added and a nice new radiator.

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Now the old radiator had distorted and split the core from what we originally thought to be a blown headgasket.

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Well yes something had let go but not the headgasket. Inspecting the hotside of the turbo the inlet of the hotside was clear to be greeted with and abundance of burnt coolant on the hotside outlet. We had infact managed to split the core of the turbo causing hot turbo gases to enter the coolant system resulting in the tremendous pressure to blow the radiator.

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This left me in an awkward situation on a sunday afternoon as the car needed to be back on the road for the school run on monday morning. So the decision was made to over ride the after run coolant system with a toggle switch to stop the water system pressurising too much on shut down and build the car up with the knackered turbo until a new one would arrive. This unfortunately meant that rather embarrassingly every time I started the car up there was a tremendous amount of coolant smoke coming out of the exhaust despite the lovely fresh engine in there. Oh well can't win them all. :irk:




A couple of weeks later Doug at MRC provided me with the complete K26/30R hybrid kit from 034. The choice was made by myself to use a .63 backhousing to keep the midrange driveable for the street at the potential sacrifice of some power at the top end of the rev range.

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From experience knowing that the collector is a restriction on the stock exhaust mani from the S6 I had at an earlier date in the cars life modified the collector to reduce some backpressure. Wanting to see how effective this was on the larger turbo I decided for the moment to see what could be achieved with this mod on the stock manifold.

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A gratuitous shot to show that we have just enough clearance Very Happy

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Having fitted the larger turbo to the car it was obviously in desperate need of a remap which due to the unfortunate timing of it's urgent requirement could not be done live as Mihnea was not in town. However he very kindly came to the rescue with a nice baseline map created using my Zeitronix data logs.

With the AudiSRS North/South Dyno day the next morning at Surrey Rolling Roads (for the South one) I decided to go along with my friends and put the car on the dyno just to see what she did at a temporary 1bar of boost and the ignition timing knocked out of it for safety until the live map.

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Looking at the results I could see the exhaust mani was going to end up being a top end restriction so some further plans were in the pipeline prior to the live mapping session.

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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by JNLRacing on Mon May 17, 2010 2:31 am

Shortly after the Rolling Road day we went to turn the Boost up to 1.4bar on the car after which it started missfiring and smoking on startup and idle pretty much after the first couple of passes. With the final crunch being an abundance of smoke coming out of my bonnet smelling of burning oil.

So I eased of and cruised home to investigate. Well the missfiring was from the spark leads that had arc'd on no.3 and 5. Went to investigate the cause and found that both spark plugs had separated from their bases and you could spin them freely whilst holding the nut.

They didn't look lean infact if anything a tad on the rich side, so scratch head time. Further investigation found that my oil levels were a tad low to the extend of 1ltr in less than a 100miles scratch

So I started to strip her down to find the following two issues, an abundance of oil dripping out of the compressor housing on the turbo

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and an intercooler filled with oil

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Feeling the shaft of the turbo it was wobbling like a good un, less than a 1000miles on the clock with 98% of it at 1bar and it was time to take the turbo of already Neutral

Well the only conclusion that could be drawn from this was that the octane rating of the fuel was lowered so far by the oil content in the intake that it made it difficult for the spark plugs to fire causing the above failure? As it had never happened to me before or anyone I know it is unfortunately the only conclusion we could draw.

So it was send to a UK authorised Garrett agent (Owen Developments) under instruction of the US supplier for inspection, a warranty report and rebuild. Long and short of it they found two issues with the turbo, something to do with the exhaust heatshield being for an internal wastegate turbo rather than an external gated one resulting in it rubbing on the back of the blades on the hotside and the Oil seals on the compressor housing had failed.

Frustrated but stranded with no car as it is my Daily I just told them to fix it pay for it out of my own pocket and worry about dealing with the US supplier at a later date. Being informed it was going to take two weeks I managed to borrow a car at which point I figured I may aswell sort the engine bay out and get the Wagner exhaust mani on there at the same time.

Now being the type of person I am I couldn't help myself but clean up the casting on the exhaust mani and plasma coat it with zirconian, whilst awaiting the turbo.

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I also received my new wetblast cabinet and figured I may aswell clean some of the engine brackets up and ancillaries.

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Shortly after which the turbo arrived back from repairs. Looking at the hotside and the Wagner exhaust mani I realised there was further improvements to be had.

So I took the .63 hotside

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and ported her

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Which meant the exhaust manifold could be once again further improved upon. So I milled out the turbo flange and blended it to the hotside to minimize turbulence into the turbo

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In order for this to work I made a conscious decision not to run a exhaust manifold to turbo gasket and instead milled both surfaces 100% true to ensure a perfect seal that way.

Whilst at Owen Developments I also got them to modify the compressor housing to reduce the effect of the anti surge housing.

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Under recommendation from Owen Developments I got rid of the stock airbox setup and the silicone elbow in favour of a mushroom filter. As they where of the strongest opinion that the amount of air that the turbo needed to sustain higher boost could not be sucked through the stock air intake system. which in turn was their opinion as to why the oil seals failed as the oil was literally being sucked into the compressor housing past the seals as I came onto boost.

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Some gratuitous shots of the cleaned engine

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Now note the relocated MAF in the above picture on the bottom right. I quickly discovered that there is no physical way you can clamp the MAF tight enough to stop boost hoses popping of without totally distorting it and endering it useless.

So under kind advice of Doug at MRC he recommended that I strap her in between some metal pipework to stop the hoses blowing of.

So to ensure the car was running again by the morning I had to improvise and use what I had laying about. So I mocked up an aluminium elbow for the TB side.

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And then proceeded to modify the SFS billet connectors to end up with this contraption.

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The end result meaning the hoses where no longer trying to separate. All they had to do now was seal against expanding pressure, meaning lower clamping forces are required and the MAF housing doesn't distort.

Happy that everything was running as it should be I took advantage of the fact Mihnea was readily available to put a live map on the car for me. She was mapped up for approx 1.7bar as the stock ECU had issues with giving consistent boost curves across the gears for anything higher. So map was left as a nice safe one to allow me to go out and get a boost controller to play with.

So I'll end this post with a power plot of how the car stood on stock ecu fuel and boost management.

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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by kevhaywire on Mon May 17, 2010 8:26 am

Great thread and good to see you back on here again! Cool

JNLRacing wrote:So it was send to a UK authorised Garrett agent (Owen Developments) under instruction of the US supplier for inspection, a warranty report and rebuild. Long and short of it they found two issues with the turbo, something to do with the exhaust heatshield being for an internal wastegate turbo rather than an external gated one resulting in it rubbing on the back of the blades on the hotside and the Oil seals on the compressor housing had failed.

Yeah that happened to me too. ATPTurbo.com sent me a GT3076R a couple of years ago which also had the incorrect hot side seal / heatshield fitted. This is something Garrett would never do obviously, so it makes me wonder about some American tuners' aptitude with basic turbo assembly.
Did you not hear it? Mine made hell of a whine, from atmospheric pressure upwards.

The pics illustrate the issue quite nicely. You can see where the turbine blade was rubbing the shield. They should have fitted a flat shield as per the second pic, which was my old GT3071R, a proper genuine Garrett Turbo.

Bottom line - I'm not buying a turbo from America again!
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New_3076.JPG You don't have permission to download attachments.(77 Kb) Downloaded 6 times
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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by dirtytorque on Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:53 am

great warts n all write up and some impressive figures.
How do these muscular estates handle?
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Re: My 2 ton bugswatter

Post by mrbeige on Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:52 am

How long did the build up take JP? Also, if you are rebuilding an engine, is there any time restriction on the time between the build and running the engine? Just wondering if the lubrication you add to the shells, bores etc will 'dry out' over time?

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