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Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

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Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:09 pm

About 4 years ago I used to have a nice 318is and sold it to get something cheaper, I'd always wanted a Corrado and so with bugger all knowledge I bought the first one that I saw. Not a smart move really, but I'm so pleased I did as it's been a great experience and truly a labour of love. Anyway, enough prattle here's a few pics to show the work I've done.

Engine Specs:
1990 Corrado 16V
Megasquirt V3
Ford EDIS ignition control
Standard KR cams
Gasflowed head
ARP headstuds
KR block with 9A internals
BBM fuel rail with 30lb/hr injectors
Mocal oil cooler with MK1 GTI take-off plate
BBM breather block off plate with catch tank
Ford ISV with custom adapter plate
Not sure on power as I had a few teething troubles when I took it to Stealth for a map, Vince reckoned it should do 180 though.

...on with the pics

I'd had the car a few months before the headgasket gave up and I decided to fix it. I didn't intend to rebuild the whole front end, I just got a bit spanner happy. The engine was really dirty.

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Front end all dismantled and the engine out...grimy!
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A bit cleaner after dousing the engine bay in gunk
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I had all the wishbones, subframes and pretty much everything that was metal sand blasted and painted black. I made the schoolboy error of zinc priming everything and then discovered I wouldn't be able to powdercoat it. POR15 does a pretty good job though, although it will NOT come off your hands in a hurry!
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Cleaned up subframe in place and coated with Dinitrol cavity wax and underbody sealer
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I decided to go 2 litre when I rebuilt the engine and got hold of a 9A from Stu, I couldn't seem to find any suitable pistons for the build at the time so I decided to reuse the KR block and use standard 9A ones. The KR block needs a little bit of grinding here and there to make things fit, but it's fairly straight forward. I also transferred the 9A oil squirters onto the KR block.

Very dirty KR as it came out of the car
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Tapped hole for the 9A oil squirters (M10x1.5)

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9A and KR Oil squirter differences

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Oil squirters installed, I had to modify the piston skirt slightly too to stop any interference

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I made the mistake of not increasing the size of the hole for the oil pump gear when the block was bare, so I had to dremel it out when it was all assembled.
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The engine all built up and ready to go back in the car

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The engine back in the car

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I bought some new headlights and indicators and drove the car for a few thousand miles, until the dreaded blue smoke started appearing out of the back.

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It got to the point where it was bugging me and I was wanting to Megasquirt it too, so I decided to take it off the road and take it to the next level.
This is what I found lurking in the oil pickup strainer and it turned out I had 7 broken valve springs and 4 bent valves. I thought it might have been a dodgy batch, but I'm now thinking that I should have run them in differently to thermally cycle them.

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Once more the engine was in bits whilst I sourced parts for my MS build. MS took me the best part of a year to install what with sourcing all the parts and work commitments. Luckily I had access to a shop so I was able to make all the parts I needed for the install. I decided to use Ford EDIS with MS as it seemed like the easiest way of achieving fully mappable ignition. It really works very nicely and takes a lot of hassle out of the build.

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The EDIS module, found in all Fords upto 1996 I think.
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I made a boss that I bolted to the crank pulley using long bolts, the trigger wheel then bolts to the boss and is adjustable. The boss also allows me to get a socket on the crank pulley bolt to turn it over by hand. My sensor mount is made from aluminium bar and could do with remaking really as it's not the best design, although has been fine so far.
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Was good to see the bores looked good after running in, with a nice polish to the thrust side. I used the 'run it like you stole it approach', this might also explain why my valvesprings broke though.
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I originally intended to use the MS relay board, but then decided there's not really any point as it just means more connectors to go wrong. I've since mounted all the relays behind the glovebox and put a small fusebox inside.

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The BBM fuel rail I found on eBay.
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The finished engine bay after rebuilding the cylinder head and installing MS. I had the inlet manifold and cam cover powdercoated in a rather nice crackle finish too.

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I chopped out loads of the old wiring loom and routed the loom that goes across the back of the engine bay to inside the car. Pain in the arse to do, but looks much neater. It's amazing how much wire can be chopped out!

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Fitted some Audi gauges too, the oil pressure gauge is a must have if you're tinkering about with an engine. Also bought the centre console of Stu, he always seemed to have exactly the parts I was looking for at the right time!

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Fitted 280mm brakes and milled some grooves in the disks using a 4mm ballnose cutter
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I found that the VDO ISV originally fitted to the car kept on frying the transistor that was driving it, despite using an uprated one. It also had rubbish resolution so I decided to try and use a Ford ISV instead. I had to make an adapter bracket for it, but think it looks pretty nice and is much simpler than the VDO one. The resolution is much better too and I can now get a rock solid idle.
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Once again I was back on the road, but not for long unfortunately. I took the car down to Stealth to get it mapped by Vince, unfortunately one of the core plugs popped in the head (something which Vince had never seen) so I had to get the train home and also begrudgingly pay Stealth to fix things. I went back a few weeks later to finish off the mapping, but as it turns out I'd made a few errors in my MS install making the car suddenly jolt for no reason. Needless to say, time ran out and I had to go home, I've since fixed the problems but not been back to Stealth to finish the mapping.

I ran the car for a while but then noticed the dreaded blue smoke AGAIN, and figured that the cylinder head was just cursed. After the valvesprings breaking I rebuilt the head, but didn't get the valve guides replaced as the engineering firm I took it to said they were all in tolerance. All the stem seals were new so I was a little puzzled.
Anyway, I removed the head and discovered that all the piston crowns were consistently wet with oil, I then stripped the head expecting to find something obvious but it looked to be fine.

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I then wondered if I had an oil scraper ring problem so I removed a piston and found all was well there too. Hmmm, confusing!

I'd previously built up a new cylinder head using ABF valvegear that I'd also gasflowed, only to find that it was cracked from the spark plug hole to the valve seat, so I hadn't used it.

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I decided to fit it and see if this fixed my blue smoke problem and voila, it seems to be fine. I can only assume that the valve guides in the old head, although being in tolerance are worn eccentrically or something weird. I'd like to hear any thoughts.

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Whilst fitting the new head I also fitted a Mocal oil cooler and take off plate from a Mk1 GTI. I also got a thermostat from a Porsche 911 that opens at 95 IIRC instead of 110. To rule out any crankcase oil causing my blue smoke, (however unlikely) I fitted a breather block off plate and catch tank. I'm not sure what it's collected yet, but it makes a funny gurgling noise.

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Porsche thermostat on the right (p/n 930-107-155-00)
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The engine as it now stands
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The car is still not finished, but it's taken me forever to get the engine working properly. The next thing I'll be buying is some new Koni TAs and top mounts. It's got 155k on the clock and on it's original suspension, so the handling is akin to a shopping trolley at Tesco's to say the least!
I'm pretty pleased with how it's turned out so far, but like most things of this nature I'll do better next time.

andydavy
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:02 am

Some bold work there matey,especially with some of your bottom end mods.
Did you have the bottom end balanced after taking material off the pistons,how does it run now?

Some really nice work with the MS install.
I was planning to get my new engine running using a dizzy/hall sensor etc but part of me thinks I should just install the EDIS now while the engine is out of the car.Can't make my mind up lol.
Have you finished mapping the car?

Enjoyed reading that warts in all build.I hope to see more bits as u go along. Smile Good Job
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by mrbeige on Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:23 am

Awesome work Andy, and I'm glad I could provide the right parts at the right time Wink

I had wondered if you could use the Mk1 Golf Oil take off plate to mount a remote oil cooler, but good job on getting a porsche 'stat.

Reading this thread does give me renewed interest in getting mine done....

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by ctwg60 on Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:22 am

Good thread. Makes it so much more interesting when you hear the good and bad. I like your oil jet solution. I've been playing around with a PG block and it has the KR type oil jets, I thought about changing them for 9A type jets but thought it would be difficult to drill and tap for them even for an engineer due to the location of them in the block. Was it difficult? Did you do it yourself or have a specialist do it for you?

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:51 am

Thanks guys!

I didn't get anything balanced on the bottom end, but I did weight match the pistons using some scales. I only removed a small amount of metal from each skirt and they were actually more evenly weighted than stock by the end. The rest of the bottom end hasn't been balanced and it runs just fine, although I'd probably have it done next time I do a rebuild. The car is mapped upto about 5000 rpm and perfectly driveable, it just needs the 'top end' finishing off.

In my opinion EDIS is the way to go for ignition it's virtually plug and play requiring only 2 wires from MS and works like a charm. I think EDIS has some extra features too like limp home mode if your VR sensor packs in. I wish that I could have done a lot of things with the engine out of the car, makes it so much easier.

The oil jets were actually really easy to do and yeah I did it myself. It looks like there's not enough wall thickness on the cylinder side to thread the hole, but there is, just keep the tap square!. I can't remember, but don't think they even needed drilling out, just tapping, you need a 9.25 hole to tap M10x1.5.
Also, make make sure to thoroughly flush out the oil gallery above that feeds the squirters!

I like the GTI take off plate, it looks OEM. The only problem is that I can't seem to get oil flowing through the radiator using the Porsche thermostat, I think I may have damaged it though by using the huge spring that came with it and not the VW one I took out. Not sure what I was thinking really, I need to look into it more.

My only concern is the crack in the cylinder head, I'd be interested to see if anyone thinks this could be a problem. The compression is fine, I just don't want the valve seat to drop out.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by ctwg60 on Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:42 am

Thanks for the info on the oil jets. As for your mk1 oil take off I used one on my 3A 8v G60 with the stock thermostat and it keeps the temp under 100˚C, I kept the water-to-oil cooler also and between them they do a good job of keeping the oil temp under control.

The porsche one is fully open at 80˚C I believe where as the vw one is fully open at 90˚C and is supposed to be a straight swap so not sure what's happening there although the porsche one looks slightly longer as does the spring.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:25 pm

No probs. It's just my dodgy photograph, both thermostats are infact the same length, although the cutouts on the Porsche one are about 2mm offset from the VW one. For some stupid reason I used the large spring instead of the smaller VW one and I think there may have been to much spring force for the thermostat to push against and I might have broken it.
I'd not thought of using the GTI take off plate with the water-to-oil cooler, the engine does take ages to warm up now so I might give it a try.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:31 pm

I want to use the water to oil cooler too to help control engine temps when the car is moving slow/stationary in the summer.

re the oil squirters,you must have steady hands.lol.
The look awfully close to the bores.
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:03 pm

I think that the oil squirter holes actually taper away from the bores, so it's nowhere near as bad as it looks. Cast iron taps out really nicely too.

I fitted a slimline 12" SPAL fan to the radiator with a cabin mounted override, it's handy if you need to bring the temps down a bit if you're stuck in traffic. It's much more effective than the OEM fan too and fits almost perfectly to the radiator cowling. Incidentally, I got it from an air conditioning company and paid about half the price because it wasn't sold as an overpriced 'motorsport' item.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by mrbeige on Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:15 am

andydavy wrote:I fitted a slimline 12" SPAL fan to the radiator with a cabin mounted override, it's handy if you need to bring the temps down a bit if you're stuck in traffic. It's much more effective than the OEM fan too and fits almost perfectly to the radiator cowling. Incidentally, I got it from an air conditioning company and paid about half the price because it wasn't sold as an overpriced 'motorsport' item.
Good work! does your Rado not have dual speed fan anyway? Or was that a later spec feature?

I have a mate who (I think) still works for an air-con company in Shrewsbury. Might be worth having a chat with him about fans.. Suspect

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by kevhaywire on Fri Feb 13, 2009 5:10 am

Good thread!

It reminds me so much of my project. "Back on the road again, but not for long", I can so relate to that Laughing My Corrado throws a wobbler once a year, or each time I move house it seems.

I did the aggressive running in method on one of my engines and lost piston / cylinder number 6 very shortly after, so I think a saner run in is wise, as proved with my second engine!

Good luck with yours, keep us posted!

P.S I've never heard of a core plug blowing out either!

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:13 pm

@Stu, Yeah I think the fans were dual speed but the faster speed only comes on if you're coolant gets mega hot. Anyway, the slimline SPAL fans go all the way upto 11 for that extra push over the cliff!

I think the run it hard or run it gently break in debate will rage for ever! It seems that people do have varying results with it. I wonder if different engines respond to it better than others?

Just ordered some Koni TAs today to go with the H&R springs I've had lying around for the past two years, so I'll be looking forward to fitting those in a few weeks time. Very Happy

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:52 pm

where are you getting your rpm signal for your tach now mate?
Looking on trigger-wheel.com looks like their 4 cylinder coilpack kit is only £35 quid.

No brainer.
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:02 pm

The tach is driven directly from the coilpack through some diodes, check out this link for more info. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I bought an EDIS unit including the loom and VR sensor from the scrappy for a fiver, and the coil pack off ebay for 20 quid. The kits off trigger-wheels don't have much of a loom with them. The VR sensor is all shielded too, so it's easier if you can remove the whole loom from the car. Make sure to use the second generation Ford coil pack too as you can use standard VW leads with them.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:56 pm

Oh yes I think I remember seeing that link when I was experiencing problems driving my tach on my old setup.
can you recommend a ballpark year and model?
I can always make up a loom.I have a couple of other bits and bobs to make up anyway so that shouldn't be too much of an issue but I'll have a look in the local scrap yard to see what is available.
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:04 am

I think anything fuel injected from the early to late 90s will be fine. The newer Fords starting with the Focus and Puma have EDIS built into their EECV or whatever it's called engine management system. Old Mondeo's, Scorpio's, Escort's, Fiesta's should all be a good bet. VR sensors are usually held into the gearbox with those bloody torx screws too!

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:17 am

andydavy wrote:I think anything fuel injected from the early to late 90s will be fine. The newer Fords starting with the Focus and Puma have EDIS built into their EECV or whatever it's called engine management system. Old Mondeo's, Scorpio's, Escort's, Fiesta's should all be a good bet. VR sensors are usually held into the gearbox with those bloody torx screws too!

Thanks.Thats goot to know.I'll remember to take the right tools when I go hunting. Smile

At least replacement ford parts will be cheaper than VW parts. Rolling Eyes
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:55 pm

so with the diode cct as your tach is working the mpg function in the mfa will still work as well eh?
Are you getting reasonable mileage btw?
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:01 am

I thought the MPG function was calculated from the manifold vacuum?

The mpg function still works though, but I suspect it's not very accurate as I was getting low 20s. There's no reason why I shouldn't get excellent fuel economy, but I think it's just a matter of spending the time and tuning it up really, which I just haven't had the chance to do.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:10 am

it needs a few inputs to work including engine speed. Smile

cheers.
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Fri Feb 20, 2009 6:00 am

me again.
Any tips on removing the old egine bay loom?
In particular the things i'll need to remove to pull it out of the bulk head.I can't just leave the old g60 digifant engine harness in there anymore.
It's bugging me.

ta.
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:17 am

If i remember, I think I started from the ECU and removed any wires that were connected to that. It's just a case of identifying which wire does what and removing it as necessary. It's easy to pull individual wires through the bulkhead as opposed to a whole bunch of them as they pass through the seals. Use plenty of Man torque!

If you click on the link below, it's got all the wiring info that I used to do mine. Good luck!

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by dirtytorque on Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:26 am

Did I read that you got the regulating cap from Ford?
I don't spose the capacitor from Ford item had the voltage rating on it did it?
I guess as long as it is rated well above 12volts I can use any 25uF cap for the regulating capacitor in the edis-4 wiring harness?!!???
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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:26 am

I bought the regulating cap from maplin, I don't think there's anything particularly special about it so any should be fine.

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Re: Andy Davy's Megasquirted Valver

Post by andydavy on Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:47 pm

I've just picked up a pair of mint Porsche 996 rear calipers (the same as the Boxster S ones but in gloss black rather than red) to go on my car. I'll be using these with the standard Seat 305x28 discs.

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