Running in a turbo mill...

Right guys,
What's your views on running in a turbo engine?,how many miles/km's nessesary?.
What turbo boost?(if any).
I've done 780kms so far(0.5Bar turbo press..) but i'm getting really impatient and want to crank the boost to 1.8+Bar,forged 7.7/1 comp. pistons,8 injectors with matching software,LSD,T4 roller bearing turbo etc,etc.
I think it's still too soon.

I've tried both the aggressive run in method and a normal factory style bed in and the latter worked for me. The former method cost me a block

Personally, I would take it easy. I understand the aggressive run in method CAN work and that 90% of the cylinder bedding is done within the first 20 minutes from first start up, but tight pistons can overheat too easily and scratch the bores.

I wouldn't go any higher than 0.5 bar until 2000 miles have been covered, with regular oil changes in between.

I could have sworn you advocated hard driving for a bed-in over on CF Kev!

When I built my 16v 205 GTi, I babied that for 1000 miles and after that it pulled like a rocket all the way through the rev range. Even topped it out at 140 (speedo) going uphill with 3 in the car! So I would advocate taking it steady too.

I did at first as it appeared to work, but when when cyl 6 died, it was apparent it got too hot, too quickly and nicked the bore. So if anyone asks now, I just recommend the gentle method as it's safer...... not that people can be arsed with an acknowledgment it seems!. Dunno why I bother sometimes.

Assuming piston to bore clearance is correct, bores are correctly honed at 45 degree and all the oil clearances are correct, a good quality engine building lube has been used on all bearing surfaces and the bores (not on the rings as any lube inbetween the ringlands will stop the rings bedding in properly). Lastly make sure you have a good baseline map I tend to advice the following which has worked on countless lumps over the years.

Fill engine with semi synthetic 10W40 as turbo's dont like mineral oil.

Disconnect any sort of electronic boost control running actuator or wastegate of a low psi spring (5-7psi).

Start car and make sure there is no leaks and everything appears correct. Don't let it idle too long try and drive as soon as poss using gentle driving to bring the engine upto temp.

Go for a 20 mile drive treating 4000rpm as your redline driving varied on part throttle only, not WOT driving as you normally might do. i.e. don't sit at continuous rpm. Stay in lower gears using the rpm range avoiding loading the engine unnecessarily.

After 20-30 miles switch the car of and whilst the engine is still hot drain the oil and remove the filter this will get rid of any impurities that where missed in the build and anything that has been introduced from initial bedding in. It is important to do this whilst engine is hot as the oil will be thinner and clear from the system better.

Fit a fresh oem oil filter (not pattern as they don't ave the one way check valve in them to keep oil in the head for start up) and fill the engine with 15w50 mobil one motorsport blend or simlar like kendall gt etc... Don't buy castrol it's crap.

Go and drive your car for another 400-500 miles spritelly treating your redline as 2/3rds of the engine redline. Maintaining the same rule of no WOT. However feel free to race of the lights and in and out of country lane corners so long you adhere to the two rules of throttle and rpm. The more pressre you get behind the rings the better they seal.

Ok,thanks kev and JNL,i've already got the Mobil 1 oil ready.