Top Mounts.

Yup, I did the ones on the VR in like 40mins. Loosen top nut 21mm I think, but you'll need a heavily cranked ring spanner and ideally a 6 sided 10mm (or 11mm I can't remember) socket.

Loosen off the top captive nut, jack car up, undo nut completely, remove the dished topped thingy. The strut should drop down at this point. The next nut holds the top mount in place, but also holds the spring plate down, so I used the top of the turret to stop it pinging off when I did it, by dropping the car down slightly.

Otherwise it's struts off job, and you'll need spring compressors if you are running standard springs.

You might have a 22 or 20mm top nut Rob, I know the earlier cars are different. I used the appropriate sized socket, and filed 2 flats onto the socket so I could grip it with a spanner, then put the allen key through the 1/2 square hole.

I might have a spring plate....

I have 2 brand new ones, that are surplus to my requirements. Bought in error, as I thought I needed them. Can't remember how much they were now, though. I'll dig out the reciept later, but is £5 delivered for the pair sound about right??

Are you stealing my sale? :p lol

I'm just fiddling with the ipod.

Sorry dude, thought yours was a second hand one lol. ignore my earlier post then.... lol

mrbeige wrote:Sorry dude, thought yours was a second hand one lol. ignore my earlier post then.... lol

I'm only taking the piss.

You only need to get the tracking and camber done, if you undid the bottom strut bolts though?? Or did you?

I always mark the camber angle on the wheel arch liner with tippex and a magnetic laser pointer

Works every time. Last time I did it, I thought I'd fecked it up as it was tugging slightly, but on the 4 wheel alignment rig, I was -1.3 deg camber nearside and -1.2 on the offside, and that -0.1 difference tugged the toe out by 0.03 degs

Anyway, just thought I'd share that and it's a damn site cheaper than a camber gauge!